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Looking at it again has that L/h top wire come adrift? If all else fails all that is actually needed are two in-line fuses one each side between those black wires.

Well as no one else has answered you, I’ll try my best, it looks to me as if those fuses just need to be a very good fit into the plastic holders, presumably it says somewhere on them what rating they are to get new ones, If they are a slack fit it will cause heat. If it were mine I would wrap...

Depends, what type of door and is it going to be painted? I think the easiest way is to add a fillet of wood to one edge of the door- probably the hinge side and then plane to fit The gap at the top can be dealt with by cutting the door to fit. Ian

Just found a pic, it looks insulated but I’m sure it isn’t.

Came across that in the States, rod and pole? I think, I saw it in the ceiling of a basement, could easily have reached out and touched it, but then they say in America "it’s low voltage it’ll only tickle" not if it’s a high amp system!

Yes but it doesn’t scream! It’s a much lower frequency, not sure what the rpm’s are but it’s probably 10 times faster on a router. Agree about the ear defenders.

I agree they are extremely loud, it’s one of the reasons I hardly ever use one, that and the mess. Soft start makes things a bit more pleasant, I don’t have enough experience of different makes and models to be able to advise on good ones to buy sorry. Not what you asked but I prefer a spindle...

Sounds a horrible job. Rodents also love those white plastic slip on plumbing fittings, you can imagine the results!

Personally I wouldn’t want the emails, as said just stay logged in all the time and hit what’s new. Strange thing recently is that after selecting a topic I press the top left go back arrow but it’s not taking me back to the most recent. It’s probably the garbage internet here,

Hi Steve presumably the hinges went across most of the boards which is why they had elongated holes in the hinges, you wonder why they didn’t fasten the hinges to the braces though. Have seen that exact elongated washer on the underside of my Dads Wartime drawing board, a lovely thing with a...

Firstly I made a mistake and should have oriented the bottom block the other way, so I reinforced it with screws, works fine. It’s Ash btw. So I have replicated the original cast iron bit in wood that slides up and down, and I used a ring bolt to apply pressure onto the rail, the rail is...

Wonderful stuff! I did a job once using sections of Oak almost those sizes, I had to get the yard to plane it up for me, I haven’t got the really big equipment like you. The noticeable thing fairly obviously is the weight of one of those beams, how you are going to cut the curve (I imagine...

@johnnyb is that your recommendation or are you trying to shock us with the price tag £36!

Beat me to it! Always get a couple of friends to hold a blanket under lol Q&I hmmm very attractive John! Ai?

To help stop the juddering try countersinking before you drill the hole,it’s what I do all the time now, I think it was Doug on here said about it. It also is easier to get the hole exactly where you want it, quite a bonus sometimes. So because of this I just use a cheap finned rose one. Ian

Sorry yes I wasn’t explaining myself, I meant this could replace the broken casting, you would make a wooden piece that slides and locks on the rail and fasten your fence onto it, or replace the whole thing of course. Ian

If you don’t have any luck it’s quite possible to make a whole new wooden fence, I did it to replace a 4ft long Aluminium one on my SCM combination machine including the clamping arrangement, (square tube on mine). And it works a whole lot better than what it replaced! After all the fence...

It was Nr 1 but it only stood proud of the shelf by 3mm and all rounded over on the spindle molder. Not sure if the sagulator is accurate but this definitely made a difference.

Fraid you’ve lost me there, but if you mean to drill 30mm holes in the wall top and bond in the s/s it just wont hold - at all. Did you mean 300mm?

I used Ash faced MDF for mine a few years ago, I wrapped the front edges with a U shaped section of Ash- mainly to cover up the edge. The main shelf which was built in was about 4mtrs long and the only way to hold it up at the front was some legs, a bit like balustrades. Sounds bad but it was...