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Sorry I don’t know their proper purpose, but I’ve had a pair for as long as I can remember, they get used for all sorts of things, they just lend themselves to some jobs I think it’s the angled jaws in relation to the handles. Ian

Thanks for the retrospective, really like that Maple top and front, it’s one of my favourite timbers. Nice touch curving that bottom rail, hope you rounded the edges, I find I often brace myself with my foot under that rail. Ian

Also known as a Chicago bolt, yes would work, visible but not ugly.

Funnily enough I was investigating this the other month, I decided that a room within a room was the solution. So I decided that it could be made from 3 or4” Kingspan fastened to the inside of a 2x4 framework which is screwed onto an insulated shed type base, then OSB as an internal sheathing. I...

This sort of thing

You could hide the screws inside the mating surfaces by using keyhole plates, or you can even do it without, but for longevity plates would be best. You could also use those nasty bedrail to post things. Would work better on this than on a bed imo. Ian

You forget that it’s not just you, a highly qualified woodworker without a spokeshave. Jacob is speaking to all the novices out there as well.

I’m sure it won’t be a problem but American standards are different ( that magazine article appears to be from there) quite a few food colourings used there wouldn’t pass European standards for instance. Shellac is safe, not a lot of people realise that brown sauce is (or was) made from...

Japan’s demographic problem is an indication of what is going to happen in the Western World, it’s already started. Even the BBC has picked up on it, the figures are alarming, sorry, look it up, I don’t have time to find it, travelling today. I am sure the problem is very well known to the...

With a chamfer you would normally run two pencil lines along the edge to be worked and plane down to them, it’s easy enough, personally I prefer to use a nr4 but you could use a block plane. Ian

Well I could see a couple of drawer fronts? Did I miss another pic? I feel sure your work deserves showing, it looked good what I could see. Ian

Think there are two reasons, the first as I think you alluded to is to cover up all future damage, and it’s also a cheap (and nasty) way to try and reproduce the wonderful planished finish you get from hand beating silver or copper. The other brilliant thing about Copper is that it kills germs...

That’s Brill thank you.

I’m jealous of that thread! I’m just planning to make my own, even though I’m in the States myself. What make is it please? I may change my mind, especially after seeing yours! I’ve designed a quick release (top and bottom) for my leg vice- quite a departure from the standard one. Should work...

Exactly, I was asked to look at some wardrobe doors which had gone all over but particularly on the edges, I don’t like to say no to people but they were beyond repair. The problem you have also is that once they start to become unstuck it won’t stop there. Ian

And when the Grandchildren come to visit Derek you’re going to need one of these, but made by you obviously. I saw this and the similarities are striking, I immediately thought of your chairs. Ian

Used to call it Budgie grit. And sorry, no thank you.

Yes or a block plane first. Absolutely no way would I use a router.

Probably, I would have a look at old refrigerated containers, they come in all sizes but obviously most will be articulated truck size. The main benefit is that they are well insulated with double doors. Ian

Unless the brackets are special ones or you have bent them, the seat to back angle won’t be right will it? I think I would use a length of Oak along the bottom edge of the back ( angled to suit ) and the the seat can sit on that, you have plenty to screw through the jointing baton into. Ian