Search results

The best way to make a long rod is to use a rounder such as the ones sold by Ashen Crafts http://www.ashemcrafts.com/ I have 1 of them from a project that needed about 40ft or 11/2 inch oak dowel Ian

Im pretty sure they are metric as that is where I got mine from ian

I am sure there has been a topic on here about plywood grading systems. I think B grade birch is the highest and is a real quality product. Most places stock BB grade which has a few small plugs but no voids or excessive surface. For smaller projects you can usually work round he plugs. Both...

4 and 6 mm birch is about £25 for an 8 X 4 sheet. That provides one heck of a lot of scrolling. I would suggest that when you look at how much time you are investing into a piece, the cost of birch is not that high. At the other end of the scale, cheap plywood will only be half that price but...

I have one of the crown saws mentioned by AndyT/ I find there is too little set and it is more difficult to use than a fine dovetail saw. For most of my fine work I now use a fine japaneze dozuki. lovely clean cut and better than the gents saw for me but a lot down to personal preference Ian

I think it depends upon the material for your table. My first router table was made from solid 20mm tufnol so I simply routed dovetail slots in it The current one is a plastic covered birch ply with aluminium t track. As well as screwing you can alway adhesive bond if you are worried about the...

I would agree with Mikes comments about the general economics of timber vs metal framed buildings. As buildings get bigger then the spanning capabilities of steel and portal frames etc become much more viable. Insulated metal cladding panels can be very effective even in smaller buildings but...

Hi AES. There was no offence. I just wish more people would post images and details of their projects. Always good for ideas and inspiration what ever the level Ian

I really like your quality of work and the write up and photographs. I must disagree with the comment from AES. I really like seeing all the projects whether on here or the projects section whatever the standard and wish more people would post their work. I have never seen a negative comment...

You could use plastic corner blocks (the square ones not the 45 degree ones) and screw them in to the bottom to form feet about 10mm high https://www.screwfix.com/p/white-assemb ... pack/25399 Ian

i am looking to buy a new set of general files. Looking at Vallorbe or Tome Feteira. Any recommendations on these or other makes Thanks Ian

Another advantage of the french cleats is that you dont have to hold a heavy cabinet in the air while trying to screw through the back of it at teh same time. Once it is in position you can but a couple of smaller screws in through the bottom of the cabinet which prevents any chance of it...

Screwing into end grain always used to be a no no but that was with the older traditional style screws. Modern deep thread pozi drive screws will grip fine int end grain but you need very little or no pilot hole. I think the best way for your stand would be to attach 4 rails round at base...

Upside down "b" shaped things :D

I like the sting method for ensuring the 2 rails are parallel ( had to convince my self on a piece of paper) The only issue is it that while it ensures they are parallel they can be at different heights so you could end up tapering the slab Ian

I would agree with Robs comments on Japanese chisels.Buy 1 and try it.I think they are a bit like marmite. I bought one 20 odd years ago and although the cutting edge is superb, I didnt like the fairly rough feel of the general blade and the metal hoop handle is not for me. Ian

I agree with Trevannion that it all looks a bit back to front. Using it like any other guillotine I have used, you would stand with the handle pulling towards you (throat on the right and push the material into the shear. With this you would be pulling the material into the shear nip. Ian

One thing I note about this compared with a newer style guillotine is teh relatively short blades which is one of the things that is allowing you to cut circles as is the lack of a support behind the blade which is why there is the support to the side creating the throat. In terms of cutting...

You can do the same thing with a tenon saw by clamping a guide batten and then sawing up against it Ian

I see little reason why a BU plane would be so much better than a BD plane .Have you checked the base of of your No4. It may well be slightly concave so the the plane iron isnt contacting the wood surface until you have quite deep setting, which then digs in Ian