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That's why I suggested Parana Pine. If it has been 'stained', rather than varnished, getting back to truly bare wood might prove difficult but if it is Parana Pine then it would show pink streaks.

I doubt that the piece is either Walnut or 1940's utility furniture. Handles would have been made of wood and it's unlikely that locks would have been used. Additionally, 'decoration' (Ogee beading, fluting, piercing) was not used on 'utility' furniture, though there was some black market items...

12.5mm is just shy of ½" (12.7mm) and within the normal tolerance that one would expect - even for a pristine thread. At 16 tpi it falls exactly into the BSF standard - Whitworth form, fine pitch series. UNF would be 20 tpi but the left-pondians are happy to call any dia. pitch combination a...

That was my first thought.

That's what I would do - since it's outside, probably Titebond III. By the time you've cut all those you should be 'proficient' :) I think that I would first make a jig from thin Steel sheet (or maybe Aluminium) for the set of five uprights - that way you'll get all the joints to the same...

For your current project I wouldn't consider nails or screws and pocket holes are for very different jobs :) Pentraze look to be the sort of outfit that will provide what you need. I'm sure they will be very capable in advising exactly what timber - and possible treatment - you should use. Just...

Ah.... on re-reading (and your input!) I can see what you are trying to do. I don't think Burbidge et al will fit you bill - they are high end hardwood stairparts people. If you have a local (ish) (You don't indicate your location better than 'UK') wood-yard you could ask them for PAR...

If the image shows simply the metal version and you wish to make a wooden version for the same purpose then I suggest that the statement " This is a decorative fence so doesn't need to be super-robust." is very wrong. It looks to be a barrier to protect anyone falling down the open stairwell so...

There's no doubt about Shakespeare's death being on 23rd and the generally accepted DoB is 23rd. [EDIT] Apologies @Phil Pascoe - I mis-read your comment as 'either the 23rd or 24th' rather than 23rd of the 4th !! :oops: I've used the Cervantes link in a quiz question along with many...

First, I have to say that Hugo's Penguin/Treble Clef Brooch I saw as a winner at the design stage - as long as he could pull it off - and he did in spades. I'm also irritated by Catherine Ryan but that maybe down to the programme format since I avoid virtually all similar offerings due to the...

@MusicMan Your photo's don't allow me to evaluate more closely because you have a dark background but I suspect that yours is also a STUB ACME form. The crest width certainly looks narrower than the root width - there are darker bands either side of the 'crest' - If it were a Square form I...

If you have a larger collet (say ½" or 8mm) and you have metalwork facility you could make a split sleeve. I've done this for my CNC Router even going down to 1/8". At that reduction you do need three relief slots as well as the total split though. For a reduction to ¼" from ½" two would be...

Now there's a surprise !!

Ah... the English language has many potholes :)

Are you sure "...it only goes on backwards" ? Further discussion seems to indicate that it is a LEFT HAND thread - certainly dephill's version is and your first image gives me the impression that yours is too. Hopefully the ' friend of his who has a metal lathe ' is savvy enough to realize...

Just turn the Video ON - there are two icons at bottom left, the first is Microphone and the second is the Camera. when not in use they have a red line across them. Click on the Camera and it will switch it on.

The devil is always in the detail - and why I tend to be pedantic :)

That ought to depend upon which document you are reading. If it is a 'Sales/Marketing pamphlet' I would tend to agree but if it is a 'Data Sheet' then the information has to be accurate and should be relied upon.

It's certainly 12tpi, 5/8" O/D and Left hand but it is a 'Special' in all respects. The form is 29º (definitely NOT Whitworth) so falling into the 'Acme' oevre but the depth is mid-way between that specified (in the 1988 standard) of full and stub, additionally, being 5/8 O/D - to conform to the...

If that is the case then according to the 1988 Standard the root dia. should be between 0.8600" and 0.8406" and it will be 5 tpi. Whether or not you are able to measure the root dia. on the spindle in question is debatable but the 5 tpi could be relatively easy.