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Although I've been following this thread I haven't commented before because as an engineer I couldn't imagine cobbling together some way to build a reduction gear but with further revalations about the material I'm surprised that the OP wouldn't just buy Acrylic Tube. 40mm Dia is available with...

That would be my opinion too - except --- we are dealing with a molded plastic thread so all bets in that light are 'off' :) As I said before tolerance on molded plastic threads is - - - - - plastic! The idea of using a 'die' is certainly worth pursuing. Tracy Tools have a ½"BSF Die-nut at...

There are very few items made with 'NON Standard' threads - they are usually used to maintain some leverage as far as future spares sales are concerned. Totally counter-productive though. The first post mentions 'about 13mm' which is very close to ½" (12.7mm) and a 'measured' pitch of 1.64mm...

I'd recommend Yew - I planted 48 last year from Yew hedge plants

I knew that :) You may like to see both the 'concept' drawing that I found during my research : and photo's of my attempt : Made from Plywood, Tufnol, Burbinga, Oak This was my 'Mark 1' - the large circular piece of Oak in the cenrte is in fact a ball-race with 100 - 3.5mm st-steel...

My second Pentax was the first Spotmatic to come into the country in about 1960 - I was gutted when I arrived home to find my front door open and all my photo kit, including long zoom lens, missing :( (mid 70's) - I do still have an SP500 and it is still a 'joy to hold'.

I initially resisted the temptation to respond for that very reason :) and I did consider looking to see if I had a piece of Elm on hand but I'm busy with a clock project and setting up the Elliptical chuck would mean I'd become very distracted and the clock might join the pile of unfinished...

David Springett's book is what you need - that is if you want to make your own elliptical chuck. I didn't know about him when I designed mine a few years ago - working from first principles it took me two years - and I've hardly used it since :) As Alpha-Dave has pointed out, the 'dish'...

That's much more succinct than my effort :) Yes - 'Tailoring the input' - was what we did but of course this was a full commercial enterprise making gauges and we could control both Amps & Volts (IIRC) to a very high precision. I distinctly remember having to set up some 20BA thread gauges...

This only shows that SOME providers support the idea but it's certainly not universal so cannot be relied upon. I'd be interested to know if your (Jonm) e-mail address is in fact a 'catchall' ?

Polishing should be done BEFORE plating (as Fergie 307 has said) (though some buffing may be done afterward) The Voltage is not the important value - AMPERAGE and Area being plated are the figures you need to determine 'how long' to obtain a particular thickness. I've forgotten most of what...

That's probably the most important piece of advice you will ever get! Plating will HIGHLIGHT any blemish.

Well, I've received your e-mail but only to my 'proper' address, I presume that you also sent to a modified address with a '+' incorporated and hopefully you had a 'Failed Delivery' message about that one.

That has to be IONOS - previously 1 & 1 - I have exactly the same issue and I suspect that the intercepted e-mail was not from IONOS at all but from a third party faking the IONOS address - I've had over 60 scam e-mails ostensibly from IONOS but have yet to take it up with them. I originally...

I've just tested this since I am an IT pro and didn't know about it - sorry it does NOT work. insertion of + or . before the @ causes a [Mail delivery failed] message and a non-delivery of the message. The only way I could envisage this working is if the real e-mail address is a...

I don't consider a sketch 'amazing' in any way - it's the way I work. If you can draw a 'problem' then you are more likely to understand the issues involved in the solution - or - as my father said many times "If you can draw it Lad, you can make it". As Confucius apparently said, "A picture is...

No - screw through the battens into the brick - I've drawn a guess as to what I would do given the brief information available. :-- Although I've drawn Round Head Screws you may be using C/Snk and I've no idea how thick the brackets are nor how wide or what the spacing of the battens is but I...

If it were my job I'd make sure that I didn't 'avoid the battens' ! Worst acceptable position (for me) would be that the screws just missed the battens. As has been mentioned, screwing between the battens leaves you wide open to deforming the plasterboard and not having a firm/solid fixing.

That's surely not right? My first choice as a career was as an Architect and the apprenticeship period was 7 years - the careers officer poo-pooed my suggestion since I'd not had a grammar school education and I drifted into an engineering apprenticeship of 5 years starting in 1956.

The Austin 7 cost me £2 - yes 480d ! - in 1957 as a non-runner - it came from a fellow apprentice and I stripped the engine to the last nut and bolt and re-built it. I learned a great deal from that exercise. RS232 is still to be found on most 'standard' motherboards - just not as a 15 (or...