You're welcome - I know I was a bit late in replying but I didn't think anyone had picked up on the lack of suitable machinery or skill really involved to do a 'proper' job.
I hope your efforts are successful and you do find an acceptable level of freedom along with rigidity.
Personally, I...
Regrettably, I suspect that you are on a hiding to nothing.
Your first post tells me that you don't have the equipment which would enable you to come even close to 'Zero Play' - M8 bolts will not be 8.00mm dia. so will never be suitable.
You could try Nylon or Delrin washers which might...
You may not have heard of 'Tufnol' which is a Phenolic Resin Board and if I wasn't going to use alum as a Router Table top it would be Tufnol - vastly superior to any form of compressed sawdust or Plywood.
Available in many thicknesses from 1 to 50mm - and a wide range of sheet sizes. I...
I've had two! - both motors failed and I had no responce to my questions to PROXXON regarding a replacement.
I wouldn't consider using one to machine steel, Alum or Brass only taking very fine cuts < 0.2mm. The dials are 'tiny'.
Cutting hardwoods such as Ebony, Snakewood, Hard Maple...
Some year ago I had a house with two chimney breasts downstairs which combined into one upstairs. To give me more room I decided to have the downstairs ones taken out and replaced by a single central one aligning with the upper floor. This also meant having the wall between the front & rear...
I did think that was the case and is the reason I was surprised at your 'blanket' statement.
If I remember correctly, the spiral staircase in your avatar is an example of your work and I'm sure that required sub 1mm precision.
I'm suspect that you've also read the follow-up posts so can...
I did try with a finely sharpened 'stick' but the Titebond I'm using even picked up on that was too large to get in the 1.6mm holes so I resorted to the stick to get the glue out of the bottle and the scalpel to pick up a smaller amount to press into the holes.
I'll add my concerns to those expressed by AES. - I've tried (some years ago!) and failed miserably. The lateral forces are great enough to dislodge the chuck and even at low speed that's a dangerous situation.
Milling machines not only have different bearing arrangements, they also use a...
D'oh!!
I only looked as far as 'Mab...' rather than 'Mar...' :rolleyes:
I made quite a few errors when slicing the block up so I now have many quite small offcuts that may well end up as Jewellery, or boxes, just like the Snakewood I also have.
Thanks for that afferimation @Bojam - I accepted the description without question when I bought it about 2 years ago but that name didn't return any hits in the Wood Database. It has sat in my store awaiting an opportunity to present itself for a project. When I'd designed the 'African...
That is basically my point. Previous comments have ignored that fact, just suggesting that due to the nature of wood whatever you do it will 'move' so trying to work closer than 1mm is futile, without referencing the phyisical size of the object being made.
You put it more succinctly than I...
Most of today I've been working on my latest clock which has a timber dial and case. The dial is mostly what was sold to me as 'Marble' wood but in fact is some form of Palm which is 'evil' to work but perfect (as far as its appearance is concerned) for this project. It is inset with Ebony, Pink...
@Adam W. - I would have expanded my comment with a better explanation of 'Why' the statement is incorrect but the last time I did that the ensuing (interesting) discusion was deleted by the moderators so I'll start another thread in the [Off Topic] section.
[EDIT] moved to 'General...
Even though it is quite variable in its characteristics, Ash is very good for all manner of uses.
I'm just using some from a 9"Sq x 3" blank for the sides of a clock case, cut to only 8mm thick to finish at 6mm.