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Take a look at this thread, seems it was a worn belt. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/p-t-woes.128397/

Fixing sash window rotten boxes. Yes a full rebuild would be more sensible but I have a lot of internal panelling around them which would have to come off, and I’m trying to move house, so for now this is adequate.

Sapele is prone to tear-out. A router plan has no mouth so nothing to support the wood and prevent tear-out so I find they can grab very badly, especially if the cut is too heavy. A lighter cut, and a shearing cut where you try and slice side to side can help.

Fabulous, love the bridles and through mortices on the frame.

IMHO breaking 3mm drill bits is unlikely due to drill bit quality. That sounds a bit rude but I’m concerned you’ll spend more and still break them. The physical strength of the bit is unlikely much different between brands. I find I snap 3mm bits when I put lateral force on them.

I use the GVS SPR501, about £20-30 free from screwfix depending if on sale. It uses replaceable filters which encourages me to change them more frequently. I find it comfortable to wear with no noticeable restriction so can use it even when working hard. It can build up moisture inside that...

I find in pine I need to mark the mortises fractionally undersized, they then come out good, else they are sloppy. I think it’s the softer wood. I love the inlay, but you need the bench to other way vs the radiator else you can’t see it. F.

Welcome. I, like many on here I expect, quite like a lot of biscuits when working on a project. It’s nothing to be ashamed of ;) Fitz

As I move towards having the tops on on the frame and flattening them I’m trying to minimise how much I need to remove. When I made the first half of the split top I ended up with one board a few mm low in one spot. At the time I thought I’d sort it out when I flattened the top. To avoid...

I installed an inline fan in one of my rooms and I ended up installing it on a wooden board separated from the joists by acoustic foam I had lying around. This was a retro fit as initially the board just sat on the joists and there was noticeable noise from the ceiling acting as a sound board.

Aberdeen houses are designed with and internal void between the granite wall and the lath and plaster. Additionally the stones (skenes) in the wall are dressed with the upper surface sloping towards the outside of the wall. Both of these features are to help with the management of moisture from...

like most things in life it’s actually quite complicated, whereas business and people like simple problems and solutions. A business model has been developed that can be adopt by anyone, the bias in the model is self supporting. Contractor X tunes up sees damp at the wall base, sticks tool in...

I am completely aligned with the video. When I was selling a property in London I had a surveyor stick his conductance moisture meter in my wall, declare rising damp, and that I needed the whole thing damp proofing. That’s what started my research. I came to the conclusion my issue was a leaking...

Rising damp does exist, you can place a brick in a water and demonstrate capillary action resulting in water above the level in the bowl. Houses were built with damp proofing courses in their brick work as protection. Does this mechanism result in the issues that people see as damp in their...

I agree that traditionally the retained piece is between the fence and blade, thus utilising the fence as the reference surface. The problem that I have encountered when wanting multiple similar narrow pieces is that after each cut you no longer have a reference face on the piece of wood, and...

I think it's great, and also great to see a young person interested in a craft/trade. My thoughts - I like the cams as I feel they will give much more repeatable setting than moving the fence. You need a large, and hence obvious, inaccuracy in the cam position to see a significant inaccuracy in...

Welcome onboard, glad to see you in the thick of a project. Mental health is just not talked about enough. I’ve noticed many on here sharing their troubles and difficulties, and the amazing responses from the others on here. I think most folks have or are currently struggling, it’s part of life...

Some more progress. The second half of the worktop is glued up! Dowel holes were drilled with the worktop dry fitted, dowels could then be used to glue up the top away from the tenons. Drilling a 16mm 300mm long dowel hole proved problematic, the auger bit had so much friction my drill ended...

Haven’t you been a busy boy! Fitz.

Do you need to unscrew them, or just really want to? I have before spent hours, perhaps days, trying to ‘fix something’ that was only broken in my head!