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Very nice :) May I ask what is the technique for cutting out the drawer front from the same board as the front apron so that you have only the thin saw kerf as a gap? Thank you.

Maybe that was a misunderstanding. I am not stacking boards under the bench, but in the workshop. Three of the four sides of my workshop are now stacked with timber. Once I complete the bench, one of those sides will be empty.

Hello David, Actually, I have inherited one of those. But it has only one 10 mm cutter, which is too wide for drawer bottoms (which is why i need plough plane the most). It would need repairing as well. Or I could use the difficult parts (wooden nuts and threads) and make a new body myself...

Hello Ttrees, Thank you for your advice. I have positioned the tenons in a way that they would not intersect with each other and I do not have to cut 45° miter inside the legs. I do not want to use bolts, because as wood dries I will need to tighten them all the time. I designed this bench...

Hello, my fellow woodworking pals, My next tool on my to-buy list is a plough plane. Unlike bench planes, Stanley and Record plough planes still hold reasonable prices on eBay. They are 30-50 GBP, often with a multitude of cutters. I have no experience with plough planes. Is there anything...

Hello, I am preparing to build my first workbench, which will be used for work with hand tools. It will be made of unsteamed European beech. I have already cut the wood to size with some addition for waste and it is ready to be planed to size. It will be laminated from boards with the final...

Thank you very much Derek. I could buy a fence, but the first thing that came to mind was that I could use a router plane with a fence as a plough plane. Then I have found your answer on another forum, that this setup is not efficient. What else can I use the fence for? I have an old wooden...

Hello, I have saved some woodworking allocated money and I would like to buy my first specialty plane. I would like to buy Veritas router plane (as the vintage Stanleys and Records cost almost as much as a new Veritas). Can you please tell me what blades are useful to have for this plane...

I have earlier watched this video, but it would be good to remind myself of the content again.

Thank you David for throughout explanation. That is my point, too. I have seen way too many woodworkers who have published a video on how to make a wooden plane (mostly the laminated Krenov type) in various forms and sizes, but in every other video, they use their polished LN bronze planes or LA...

Thank you David, I have a jointer plane that I am restoring, so I will take your information into account, when proceeding further. I will try how it planes after I sharpen the iron and restore the cap iron and then I will see if any wedge geometry adjustments are needed. What are your...

Thank you David. I will put those videos into my to-watch list :)

Yes, his channel is already on my list. I am going to scroll and pick all Davids's videos that relate to wooden hand planes. Maybe he will give me some order which ones to watch first.

Hello, I have ordered Making Traditional Wooden Planes by John M. Whelan, because I would like to try to make some traditional English-style wooden planes for myself. I have even blunted one of my chisels to use it instead of a float (Bill Carter technique). Can you please recommend me some...

The main problem is that they are too short, so I would need to do more strokes to cut the same amount of wood.

For me thin stock is 12 - 25 mm, anything above will be cut with 4TPI. I will use it for ripping down the grain of course. I have already purchased S&J 24 inch 7TPI saws. Price was good, so I ordered 2. I will leave one as crosscut and I will resharpen one as rip. They will come in a week.

Disstons in decent shape would cost me 200 EUR - 250 EUR with shipping and import fees now, so that is not as good as it used to be. So I will try the Spear and Jackson now and if it is not good, I will buy something vintage in 7-8 TPI range.

Thank you Mike, I have already seen this saw, but it is too short for me. It is almost as short as Ryoba. I would rather buy a 550 - 660 mm saw instead, so I can cut with fewer strokes.

Hello Droogs, I am sorry for being ambiguous. By finer, I meant smoother kerf and easier to start. I have been now working with both hardwoods and softwoods. I have originally hammered all my saws to have as little set as possible, but with softwoods (and some hardwoods) they bound a lot. So I...

Hello David, I have a 7TPI vintage crosscut saw currently and after sharpening and setting, I like it very much. I have bought a cheap 8TPI hardpoint rip saw with Teflon coating just as a temporary solution, but the thing just does not cut straight and is slower than my 7TPI vintage crosscut...