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Hello, I am preparing myself to build my first workbench. I will be using mostly hand tools and maybe help myself with a benchtop planer. I can now hand plane all 4 sides pretty well, but I have problem with ends. I have built a shooting board now, but have found out that trimming 120x45 mm...

Maybe this might be relevant as well https://www.barnsley-furniture.co.uk/training/apprenticeships/

Thank you very much John, I will take a look.

Well, I have practiced both techniques, and now I can get reasonably square edges with both techniques. What I have found out is: 1. Blade needs to be really sharp. Today I have built a tool rest for my new bench grinder and hollow-ground all my plane blades. Sharpening on stones is now much...

Hello , Not many people know this because those videos are private on youtube, but Frank Strazza did outstanding video courses for the Ploughshare Institute. There are 50 + videos which include videos about sharpening, hand planing, sawing, sharpening the saws, making dado, dovetail and rabbet...

Fitzroy, yes you are correct. I did not take bed angle into account. So the hollow will be definitely less pronounced.

This is what I am currently doing. I can get decent results with very slight deviations, but I cannot achieve the theorem given by any random youtube woodworking teacher : THE EDGE IS FLAT AND PERPENDICULAR TO THE FACE IF AND ONLY IF NO LIGHT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PENETRATES UNDER YOUR FINEST...

That is another approach, If I want a narrow piece to be exactly the same, I plane one long piece and then cut it to smaller pieces that will have identical cross section.

So you know how I feel if I walk into my shop with a lot of reclaimed painted wood and offcuts. My OCD would want everything square and trimmed, but my logic tells me that planning everything square and true without a plan and cutting it to length and width first is a waste of time and material :)

Thank you very much Argus for your reply. Can you please explain how do you mean present your plane at right angle to the edge? If the stock is narrow, I cannot plane it transversely. Maybe I did not get it right. Also if you want to joint very long edges or plane faces and you want to do it...

I was planing some 15 mm boards yesterday and I did the same as you. I overhang the plane and it made it flatter, but I had less registration area that way, so I could easily tilt the plane one way or the other.

I have been using the technique that David Charlesworth describes in his video for squaring an edge with a cambered blade. He has an animation that shows how to cut a slanted edge straight with a cambered blade here: After the piece is being cut the line is perfectly straight. I cannot get...

When I am planing oak, I cannot get uniform full width long shavings without holes in them no matter how thin they are. When planing spruce or pine, it is not a problem, unless there are some knots in the way. So that is right.

Hello David, Yes, I do exactly the same thing, but only when smoothing and edge jointing. I just wanted to contrast the hasty shavings all around in the plough plane video (6:06 and onwards) and elaborate single shaving throw away procedure of Rob Cosman.

He is an antagonist to Rob Cosman, who throws away a shaving by hand after each pass. I cannot imagine the woodworkers of yesteryear, who had no electricity and needed to be productive doing that.

Hello David, very nice functioning plane. I will definitely make one or two fixed plough planes like this. The veritas cutters are like 20 Eur a piece, so I will buy a 6 mm one (1/4 "). My old iron from plough plane is very thick at the top (like 20 - 25mm) so I would have to chop an...

As this is the only reason why I would need a plough plane so far, I would give it a try. I will look some plans up on the internet and I will make one. Do I need an iron skate at all, or wooden one will be sufficient? I can have an iron skate made if I want. Thanks.

From most of your replies, I have found out that my tenons are too short. I made them as long as I was allowed so that I could saw out 4 tenons before lamination from the middle board of the leg. Sawing out 4 tenons out of 16 in total is not much of a help, so I can move the legs closer to each...

Thank you Ian. As I have already cut all the wood to almost finished length, I can now only make the distance between left and right leg shorter to get longer tenons. But that should not be a problem. Anarchist is against the through tenons on the benchtop. He is for blind tenons that are drawbored.

That is a good idea too. Maybe I can create a custom plough plane with a constant distance from a fence, that will be used for drawer bottom grooves and cabinet backs from this old plane.