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Thank you Tom for your reply. I have flattened my current bench three months ago so that I can start with this new bench build. I currently have a 2.5 m aluminium straight edge that I used when building my workshop. This will be my straight edge that I will use for planing the top. My current...

Well, I will try to answer some questions that relate to multiple posts here. 1. Here is my new workshop with my current temporary bench. The small vice is terrible. I like the adjustable board at the end of the top that serves as a planing stop. Still considering if I will mount two vices on...

I will then use the thicknesser to to the opposite side and edge. I will need to plane the first face & edge by hand, as I do not have a jointer, so that is a lot of work too. But for making the first face/edge flat and square you need to remove less material than thicknessing it to the final...

That is my reasoning as well... learning is in planing one face flat and planing the edge square to the face. planing the width and thickness of the opossite edge/side to a scribe line is not that difficult. So I would waste too much time just removing waste material on this big project. I want...

I am just reducing the boards to the thickness of the thinniest board. I have planned to have the thickness of 40 mm in my plans, but currently I can get the thickness of 42 mm while the boards are straight and parallel, so if no critical board is less, I can have the thickness of 42 mm. This...

Hello, I would like to become a hand tool only woodworker and I am currently building my first workbench. As I have a thickness planer I am deciding if I should build my workbench only with hand tools or I should take a shortcut and use a thickness planer for the opposite face and edge. I have...

Hello, maybe a basic question, but I need to buy a good lamp for woodworking. I have installed strong overhead lighting, but it casts shadows always exactly where my cutline is and I am not translucent. So I need another source of light that would be movable, not too strong on the eyes and...

I will try NX as well and compare it to the solidedge -- they both belong to Siemens, so we will see which is more straightforward to me. NX has a field, where you can fill in other reason for usage, i.e private use, so it is not prohibited.

Hello, I have been looking for decent 3D CAD software for hobbyist woodworker use. I used to be a professional Autodesk Inventor user, so I already know 3D modelling at a professional level. However, there is no Autodesk Inventor version for hobbyists and paying 2500 EUR+ a year for a licence...

after many grinding attempts, it even did not touch at all. There I noticed that I need to bend something to get it working. The successful procedure is described above.

So I finally resolved the issue myself. I have persuaded the iron to convex to the other side a bit, so that the cutting edge can touch the cap iron as later suggested by okeydokey. But the real problem was the cap iron itself. It was formed in a way, that the flat part of the cap iron laid...

I had the lever cap already pretty tight, and tightening it more did not help. I have probably found the root cause of this problem. My cutting iron is bent away from the cap iron (0.10 - 0.15 mm gap under the straight edge measured with feeler gauges) - it is convex on the flat side and...

Actually, after tightening the screw, if I press the cap iron to the blade with my fingers there is no gap. As soon as I release the pressure the gap appears almost along the whole length of the cap iron edge. So the pressure made by tightening the screw is not enough. I also tried to bend the...

This is exactly, what I was trying to achieve. The edge of the cap iron should be the only point of contact with the blade. Not the whole "edge face". I get that flat, until I tighten the screw, then one side springs off and forms a gap. After the screw is tightened only the very left point...

I have another issue with my cap iron. I have marked the underside of the cap iron with a blue marker and ground it flat, so that no traces of the blue marker are left. so it should be flat (I had the other end of cap iron hanging below the stone level, so that the edge is undercut). I have also...

That was the right solution. I have swapped the cap irons today and both my no.4 and no.5 work fine now. Thank you all. I have never thought that Stanley no.4 type 19 and Stanley no.5 type 19 will have a different length of cap iron.

Hello Jacob, Thank you, a good tip. It might be the case. However, it worked before and I have recently sharpened both no.4 and 5 at the same time. Should not they have the same cap iron sizes? I might have swapped them.

Hello, I have recently started to have issues with blade advancement in my Stanley no.5. When I set the cap iron close to the edge (0.1 - 0.3 mm) I am not able to advance the blade below the sole level. If I move it further away, I can advance the blade more by that distance. For practical...

Jacob, I will have everything laminated. Top is made of 15 boards, each leg of 3 boards, 6 stretchers of 2 boards, I want a massive workbench that will not move under any heavy planing.

Thank you very much for your advice. What is a common way to trim ends of a single thick board? A block plane? There is not enough registration area, so I always tip the plane one way or the other when doing it with a bigger plane.