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Hello, I was just wondering why early furniture makers (and maybe also nowadays as well) put their mark on a surface where it cannot be easily seen? As I have found in this definition: A telltale sign of the furniture's maker is a manufacturing tag, label or stamp bearing the name of the...

Thank you Derek, I will read your posts about dovetails. I have started to undercut the baselines before chopping / sawing instinctively, just to get a good registration area when later paring the base. I try to slightly undercut the base, so that there is no high point there and the lowest...

Thank you Jacob, a very useful tip for me.

I have watched your video. Very useful tips. I especially got interested in chisel paring techniques that you have used and tips about what to watch out so that I do not ruin the piece. I have seen you used a scrap board and a mallet/hammer to drive the tailboard into the pinboard. I have...

Thank you Peter, I will definitely take a look at your video.

Yes, it was much quicker than I actually expected. There is still some paring involved, but I know it does not take months or years. Thank you all, for the advice and support.

This will be my last picture of the dovetails before actually cutting them on the coat hanger. Here is the today's test in softwood. The boards were not planed or finished.

Thank you, but I know that this is just a single dovetail. Once I will cut 3 or 4 on the same board, I might get varied results. Once all 4 are consistent then I can say I can do it up to that level. Now it just might be good luck of a beginner.

Today's best results ( I cut 3 or 4 single dovetails today). There is no glue yet. I understand that cutting a set of 10 dovetails on the same board and making everything neat will be much more complicated. I do not have currently a smoothing plane, so I tried to make it flush with a no.6. I...

Yes Tom, you are right. I do not mind being slow, as I am doing woodworking for learning to make quality stuff that I will be once proud of. Quality of the craftsmanship matters to me, so I will accept any trick, procedure or practice exercise that will yield to a more professional looking...

Thank you David, I will gradually learn the techniques that will make my dovetails better. I have already learned today that even if I want to saw out the middle with a coping saw, it is good to establish a knife wall for the base, because when I have no material to create a notch to, then it...

T Thank you Tom, Now I now what you are talking about. You build a tent and than you lower it to nothing. I think it is useful for not blowing the chisel through the other side, so you aim for the roof from both sides and then gradually erase the tent. I have read that it is a good idea to...

Hi Tom, Thank you for your advice. I have a small engineers square, which I can register well on this piece. However, for marking the dovetail angle, I need to make lighter passes, as sometimes I need to cut with the bevel of the knife into the work. It is not always possible to orient the...

This is just a dovetail template. I need to keep the tail part, because there is the angled edge in 1:7 ratio and I cannot cut the tail off. But I will make the tail smaller (which will make pins bigger) and I will cut off the pins and start afrash the pin board.

Thank you all. This is my 3rd attempt of pins (I am using the same tail part). End pins did not crack now, I was very careful not to use much force on fitting tail to the pin. I would try it a few more times and hopefully, it will be without those gaps.

I am now practising on making L-shaped dovetail template with a single dovetail as a joint between . I have already cracked the end pin twice. So now I will try to make the pinboard without any mallet persuasion. It takes just a very little blow to crack the cherry.

The whole question is about deciding if to use a dovetail joint on a project that I want to give as a gift in two weeks. The question can be said another way. Is it common for people to get acceptable and pleasant-looking results in a short time, or it will take months or years in that case, I...

Thank you very much for your advice. This was exactly my plan as well. I will explain what I am going to do 1. I mark out 5 different types of lines a) straight line on the face side, straight line on the end grain b) straight line on the face side, right angled line on the end grain c)...

I understand, that it depends on the previously mastered skills of each individual worker. My original question was more about how long does it take for an average Joe with no previous experience to cut acceptable-looking dovetails. I am just practicing those basics, but I would like to finish...

It is due to the joint strength, that I need, not for the looks. Because only one board will hold the weight and most of the weight of the coats hung on the other board will apply a twisting force (torque) to that joint.