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I have tried the extractor but the screw heads just snapped off. So I need to use the plug cutter to cut around the screws. Here is the failed attempt with the extractor Here is another female part from the vice screw that I need to unmount Here is the back side Probably I will buy a...

I will need to buy an extractor, as the heads are so soft. Screws do turn, but the flat heads just destroy themselves before I can apply any torque.

Yes, they are rusted. However I would need to put new screws for hardware in the same place, that is why I wanted to preserve as much original wood as possible.

Hello, I am now disassembling my great grandfather's workbench made from oak. I need to replace some boards on it and I have found that there are many nails in the workbench, that were probably added later for holding things together by my granddad. There are some flathead screws that are...

The issue with this approach is that when you look at it on Monday morning and you say: Should have I taken more time .....

I only strop during one mortice. I sharpen when I move to the next mortice.

I have two mortices to go, so I may try the brace and bit alternative as well and compare the results. I have a chisel that is 1 mm wider than the mortice, and tenons are already done, as I am reusing the old tusk tenons from the workbench. That is why I opted for double mortice and remove the...

Thanks Jacob, I used the same technique, but I have used 1/2" chisels for the sides.

Hello, I am now restoring my great grandfather's workbench. Here is the picture in the original condition. I have burnt the original legs in the fireplace, as they were too low (the bench was only 75 cm high) and they were unstable (eaten by the worms, as the boards on the floor and up...

Thank you very much John, hopefully the next one will be better. I will rather turn the handle more and be sure of the grip than having heavy boards falling on my feet / or breaking the edges when hitting the floor.

I did it and it did not help. Also, the biggest issue is not the difficulty of pushing the jaw front and back, but the fact that the split nut does not hold and it opens the vice when I add more pressure.

I have just got a reply from the distributor/manufacturer and he told me that I should return it, because both the guide rails and the nut are faulty. I will get a version without quick release instead.

Thanks Bod, I will try tomorrow.

Hello, I have bought a quick release face vice 2 months ago and already there are issues. Here is the vice 1. Two front nuts must be loose in order for the vice to slide easily on the round bars. If I tighten them, it takes a lot of force to move the front jaw in and out. 2. Today a new...

I have just found a list of people who like marking their furniture in this odd "Mouseman" fashion ... Thomas "Gnomeman" Whittaker (1910–1991), Derek "Lizardman" Slater, Colin "Beaverman" Almack, Wilf "Squirrelman" Hutchinson, Albert "Eagleman" Jeffray, Malcolm "Foxman" Pipes, and Shaw & Riley...

Thank you. I have actually tested that it can be adjusted a few mm in both directions before the wood breaks, so there is some wiggle room for inaccurate walls.

Thank you very much. I will definitely try next time :)

Here is the finished coat rack and the dovetail. Not great, but everyone has to start somewhere. I used sawdust and glue to fill any small gaps on the dovetail.

Yes, I have worked at similar company as well. This has to deal with quality control, so that you can blame the individual if you get a claim from the customer. I was talking more about branding than quality control stamp. But to conclude, I assume that good craftsmen had enough work by word...

My idea was that you are a higher class citizen in the 17th century and you go somewhere and you see a beautiful high-end table and you really want to order a similar one from the same manufacturer. You have no one to ask who had built the table, so you need to crawl underneath the table and...