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From here Or Or from Ashley here

Phil, A decent liming brush is well worth while to get it into the grain. Likewise, I often scorch the timber first (even if I’m going to spray ebonising lacqur on top) as again helps open the timber grain to revive the liming / gilt cream. I’ve used the chestnut products so far and found...

Handles are like fat four leaf clover extrusion in cross section so feel really nice in the palm / fingers. Never tried turning with bent handles rather than straight ones though - do they help get a nice curve on a bowl!?!?!?! :lol: S

Happy Birthday to me!!! Treated myself to some totally unnecessary tool treats. Always loved the idea / look of these Stuart Batty (SB Tools) handles for gouges etc. Was concerned when he closed down but delighted to find another company have picked up the back-stock and IP for handles etc so...

Wow, that’s dramatic! This is what I had envisaged, simple carbide insert (and perhaps a dab of cutting oil). Cutting HSS with Carbide insert Simon

So, removed the tool from handle this evening only to find that inside the length of the brass ferrule the shank is already waisted down to 5/8” (and with a sharp shoulder only 1/8” into handle) so no turning required. Phew!! Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. Simon.

Yes, I can easily avoid a sharp shoulder - good shout. Out of interest, do turning tool manuf evenly harden the whole tool or is the shank / handle left softer than the flute I wonder? Simon

If you’re in north Devon you might like to enquire about a visit to the Max Carey woodturning trust based in Portishead. Maybe too far to travel but they have over 20 lathes in a teaching workshop so will be full of advice. They normally have a significant waitlist but may be able to...

Chas, Thanks for that - you’ve got me thinking. Given it does not need to be super precise, I wonder if using my lathe and a steady I could get it running true enough at 100 rpm (or there abouts) to grind the required section (2” length max) with a power file with appropriate belt or even...

Do you think it will be that tough? Where abouts are you?

Hi - a plea for help, I have a 23mm dia shank Sorby turning tool that I’d like to turn the handle end of the shaft down to 19mm dia for a length of a couple of inches max. My lathe only (only Chinese SEIG SC4) has a dia 20 spindle through hole and whilst I may be able to hold the cutting tip...

Someone told me once there were ‘male’ and ‘female’ walnut trees and only one or the other was the lovely colour we all look for, the other being plain pale timber. Not sure if this is true .........? Simon

London plane / lacewood, non quarter sawn with some spalting perhaps as an outside chance?

One Q i’d ask is what spindle thread the lathes were. 3/4” x 16, 1” x 8 and m33 x 3.5 are the three most popular (and therefore easy / cheap to get used chucks etc). IIRC the earlier tyme lathes had a slightly odd ball size (M20 x 2mm rings a bell but I may be wrong) that would make getting...

I learned this the hard way on a machine I was using at a college once. I did wonder, what diameter bar the headstock was and whether drilling through dia 6.2mm to allow a 6mm KO bar would be practicable using tailsock drill or whether over that distance drill wander / errors would be too...

I used it when on a course with Nick Agar. As you say, gives a flat, ceramic look / feel. Takes a bit of work to apply as best results need rubbing down in between several coats. Simon

Not tried their batteries - I was looking for tools to use with my Makita ones. That said, so far so good with tool.

Another vote for woodrat. HSS bits are ace in terms of overall design asthetic.

I recently bought from eBay a Batteriol angle grinder. It cost £57 compared to the £100 for a Makita battery angle grinder. I have the 18v LXT batteries. So far out out of the box it seems fine. Does not come with a plastic carry box, just then tool in a cardboard packageing box but carves...

Yippe - highlight of Xmas for me. Yep - count me in again. Simon