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Just a quick answer - you might get away with bead blasting it. Cheers Vann.

Nah. Then I'd have to sign off... Cheers, Vand.

30 Euro !! Not bad. Just out of interest (and slightly off topic) is the 5 1/4 made in England, or USA? Just part of gathering information on Stanley planes and where they were made - e.g. I believe Stanley never made their No.8 planes in England. Cheers, Vann (which is an abbreviation of...

I did (well almost). But I bow to your greater knowledge and experience. Funny, I've always used my 043 for ploughing. Never even considered the 45 (= 405) for the job. Cheers Vann.

Unless you're considering shapes other than flat bottomed grooves, I'd suggest you get the simplest plane that will do the job i.e. the 044 (or even the 043). Those 50s, 45s and 405s can be a hassle to setup and use - and the 55s are worse. Cheers, Vann.

I think Stanley UK used more conventional threads on their non-bench planes. I think maybe BSF and BSW. Mind you, those are odd threads now too. Cheers, Vann.

Alf had a very good site for these planes. See if you can still fine cornish-workshop and then look for "boat anchors ahoy" IIRC. I have an early Stanley 50 (pre-adjuster) and the Record 050, 044 and 043. The only one I ever use is the 043 - which doesn't have an adjuster. I've used that...

If it were me, I'd paint bottom and sides (probably with an engine enamel) then try BLO on the top surface. Camellia oil might work better, but probably won't last as long. I think that goes with the territory, but at least cast iron rusts a lot less that steel. Cheers, Vann.

I use a hand cranked grinder. That gives the option of rotating the stone either way - though I've only ever tried grinding the conventional way. Cheers, Vann.

When I first joined this forum (~2008) he was posting as Mr Grimsdale - and I believe that was at least his second persona - having been banned under a previous name. I think he was banned again under the Grimsdale name, and when eventually allowed back used his own name. From a 2009 thread...

I always release the tension on mine. I have a piece of wood with a slot cut into it, that I put around the blade to remind myself the tension is off. Cheers, Vann.

No pun intended? Cheers, Vann.

From what I can see the base is Type 7. The frog is Type 6 or 7. Probably Type 6 - but the RH thread seems out of place - are you sure it's RH? It could be a transitional plane (using the last of the Type 6 bits on an early Type 7 base). Or it could be a bitsa. Irons and lever-caps get swapped...

Do you also have the "S" on the base of the frog? And on the back of the lever cap? Cheers, Vann.

I was also told (as an apprentice) not to stand to the right* of the blade - in case it broke. I've passed that advice on to the younger (teenage) daughter - the only one of my offspring with any interest in what I do in my workshop. Cheers, Vann. * or to the left in the case of a left...

I was hoping for some extra time in the workshop (garage at home), but I'm in the unfortunate position of being employed in transport - and apart from logs, the goods levels seem to be holding up (so far). So probably no chance of a few weeks at home. But then it's a situation that changes...

You'd think the moderators would have made an exception for this type of file. It is a legitimate term after all (hammer) . Or do they think we'd all loose our cool and call each other "second cuts"? :roll: Oh sorry, I've never tried grinding a safety edge on a file - but I think might...

Up to 7/16" and then starting again at 9/16", and upwards. In other words, only the 1/2" doesn't "fit". However, from an engineering perspective they're not a good fit. But if near enough is good enough then they're a solution. I recently rebuilt a Record pipe vise and needed some new BSW nuts...

I'll miss him (hammer) . Cheers, Vann.

...and the shape of the thumbscrews. Cheers, Vann.