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My solid chisel mortiser is still awaiting some restoration (the x, y and z movements are very stiff) so I've only put a chisel in and removed it a few times. I was told to put a spanner across the flats at the top of the chisel (immediately below the taper) and rotate/twist. That's worked for...

I did find a name for them (since lost again) but I didn't know what they were for until... Thanks Andy. Cheers, Vann.

I'd suggest it's a year or two older than that. 2000 is a bit recent... ;) But seriously, here's mine. It's a Carron "Colonial". It's difficult to find dating information, but I believe it would date somewhere around the other turn of the century - give or take 20 years. And it came with a...

Firstly, I don't think that's a FM nor an RM, but the model before the RM. That's not a bad thing, but it was designed to be flat-belt driven (think line-shaft). Secondly, the looks may put you off, but that machine will (almost certainly) be able to be returned to good order. It'll just take...

No pun intended? ;) Cheers, Vann.

I think you're right. We're really lucky that we can pick up £10,000, £20,000, £30,000 machines for under £1000 and do them up for about the same. It's a testament to the quality of the original build - and probably not a very good business model. It's not the fault of China that western...

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Unfortunately on a Wadkin PK that's not possible. The blade sits on the end of the rotor shaft. Cheers, Vann.

Try going into shops that don't have lovely young ladies serving... That might help :). Cheers, Vann.

How about these? http://www.linbide.co.nz/product.php?p=57 Used to be made in New Zealand until about 3 years ago - now Chineese :(. Cheers, Vann.

I believe they came out in 1988 and were only available for about two years. Cheers, Vann.

I'm reluctant to agree with you there. In my own experience I have at least twice had a retailer take a part out of the box, as he had none of that part in stock (in one case it was a collet for a router - he opened another router box and sold me the collet). In both cases the retailer was both...

There's no cutting iron in the original photos - but new planes are always supplied complete with irons. It looks to me like NOS - but old stock because the retailer took the irons out to sell separately (possibly intending to order replacements). Cheers, Vann.

A No.5 is generally used as a jack plane, and as such you'd be better getting an old beater - and saving your pennies for a new precision plane such as a smoother or jointer. Of course you can set up a No.5 as a smoother ('though I believe that's more common with a No.5 1/2). I bought a Veritas...

I'm counting. So that's two Wadkin PK saws and two Wadkin AGS saws... (hammer) :D Cheers, Vann.

This is incorrect (hammer) . The thread is 7/32" 20 tpi Whitworth form (i.e. 55 degrees) but not BSW. This is not a standard thread. I believe that sometime in the 1990s Stanley UK changed to a standard metric thread. Cheers, Vann.

If it's on a wooden floor you might feel some vibration, however it doesn't sound right. I'd suggest either bearings are bad or the cutterblock is out of balance. Regarding the cutterblock, each shell is stamped with a number and must go back on the face of the cutterblock with the same...

'Wad', as in they cost a wad of cash. 'Kin', as they are so well built they'll outlast you and get passed on to your kin. Cheers, Vann.

I've got those interlocking mats around my handtools bench. As well as being easier on the feet, it can also save tears if you knock your favourite handplane off the bench :shock: Cheers, Vann.

Huh. You spoke too soon... Cheers, Vann.