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And Clico went out of business in 2014 so any of their bits are NOS or second hand. Cheers, Vann.

Quite right. Good old fashioned common sense. None of this "just in time" nonsense. And, of course, if it was made locally, it wouldn't be affected by container shortages (nor by ships stuck sideways in canals) - and help local employment at the same time. Cheers, Vann.

Not speaking from personal experience, but I'm sure I've read of "transitional" AGSs, where some threads are imperial (mostly BSW) and some are metric. So trust nothing. Measure the diameter and the thread pitch, then consult thread charts until you can match the two. Good luck. Cheers, Vann.

No pun intended ;). Cheers, Vann.

I don't know about Quangsheng planes, but I have experimented with swapping frogs between an L-N No.4 1/2 and Clifton No.4 1/2 (both 2 3/8" planes). No luck, the pin spacing is wrong. Same with L-N No.5 1/4 and Clifton No.3 (both 1 3/4" planes). I've not had access to other sizes of Bedrock...

Assuming you've only got single phase available, possibly the easiest way is to find the 'star' point in the motor and change it to 240v 3-phase (I believe your chances of finding the 'star' point on one of those Brooks motors is reasonably high). Then use a single to 3-phase VFD. If you have...

It's all to do with the angle that the cutting edge attacks the wood. If you hone the cutting edge at 30 degrees and then put it bevel up on the 45 degree bed of the plane, the cutting edge attacks the wood at 75 degrees - this gives a scraping action (possibly suitable for some Australian...

Here's the 1928 Preston bandsaw showing the conduit it came with (August 2017): It had been moved from it's original location in 1987 (from a closed pattern shop to the maintenance shop at the same plant). The orange plastic conduit had been added then. And the steel conduit being fitted...

Thanks. They'd be more interesting if less were in pieces... :oops::rolleyes:. Wadkin LP boring & recessing machine (1925); Wadkin RB 9" surface planer x2 (1926 & ~1947); Preston (Canada) 30" bandsaw (~1928); Wadkin CK radial arm saw (1936); Wadkin PK dimension saw (1945); Wadkin RT 6"...

Once again it looks like the iron sits at 45 degrees = it's a bevel down plane. Same grinding/honing angles as the Record 075. Cheers, Vann.

When you say "armoured cable" do you mean steel flexible conduit? I would suggest that SWA is overkill. My Wadkins are much older than your AGS (oldest 1925, newest 1951) so I tend to try to keep steel conduit (solid or flexible) where I can, especially where visible - so that it looks period...

Firstly, the iron is in the plane upside down (in the first photo). As the iron sits at 45 degrees, I believe it should be sharpened at the same angles as a bench plane i.e. grind at ~25 degrees, hone at 30 degrees. And finally, that model of plane has a reputation of being difficult to use...

Depends. If it's allowing the plane to flex in use then it probably matters. Otherwise it doesn't matter. And if it's being replaced by a Lie-Nielsen in a few months then definitely not. These are the planes I reach for most often: The Clifton No.3 is in perfect condition. The Record No.04ss...

That depends on the age of the Stanley. Stanley went through four different styles of frog seating (I don't know if their No.8 went through all four). Record planes were exact copies (except branding - obviously) of Stanley USA's type #14 (1929-30) or type #15 (1931-32) and all parts are...

I I think that'll be hard to find. Some time ago I bought a large Stanley, with the frog broken through the base, for spares. IIRC frog okay, plane base munted. If you're prepared to fit a black frog into your blue plane, I could have a look to see if it is a No.7 or No.8. Then again, maybe...

Stanley originally used a right hand thread there, but changed to a left hand thread waaaaay back (1910s at a guess, without looking it up). I think most right handed people find a left hand thread more instinctive. Cheers, Vann.

And a ***?? o_O Cheers, Vann.

The 'depth adjustment wheel'. I think thread wear will be the least of your worries. After you've eliminated thread wear, you then need to eliminate: slop where the yoke slots into the groove in the adjuster wheel; slop at the pin the yoke pivots on; and slop where the yoke pokes through the...

I believe they started using Qualcast in the 1950s (possibly very late 1940s). Cheers, Vann.

My, bought new in 1973, Stanley No.4 fits that description. The depth adjuster wheel on mine is cadmium plated steel. Is the yoke on yours cast or two.bits of sheet steel? I think they only came like that for about 5 years. Cheers, Vann.