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Damn, I wanted the MEM starter.... Cheers, Vann.

Thank-you for putting up the "Wadkin Ltd" data plate/tag (that was me asking on eBay). From the Test No. (17322) we can work out that your saw was built in 1941. It's what is now called a Generation 3 PK - the main difference between Gen 3 PKs and the previous PKs is the tilt handwheel was...

The big Wadkin RAS such as CC and CD have 1 1/4" arbors. The smaller (14") Wadkin CK has a 1" arbor. I don't know what the BRA came with, but a friend in Melbourne runs a 1" bore trenching head on one of his (three!!!!) BRAs. I assumed the BRAs all had 1" arbors, but may well be wrong - although...

I have a big old (1928) 30" cast iron bandsaw. I de-tension at the end of each day - because I was taught to during my apprenticeship. I don't know if it's necessary or not, but as it's sometimes weeks between use, and it's no bother, I do it. I remind myself it's detensioned by placing a...

I'm always in for a Wadkin restoration thread (and I think Wadkin-Bursgreen machines count). I'm off to buy snacks and beer for the show... 😉 Cheers, Vann.

Over here (New Zealand, and Australia) a surface planer is called a buzzer, so... You'll either have to look for a 3-phase surface planer - or change your non-de-plume to "Sawbench" ;). Good luck. Cheers, Vann.

Interesting discussion. I'm looking at making a pair of flatbelt pulleys for a 1925 Wadkin. Roughly 6" dia. and 2 1/4" wide with a flange on one side. I was considering MDF, but now I'll look at ply or solid timber. If it's successful I MAY get around to making patterns to have them cast in...

They will cam out, but they're not as fussy as ps/pz, and can take more angle misalignment. I can never remember if they're Robinson or Robertson (the latter I think), so they're square drive to me. Cheers, Vann.

Err... maybe set at 45 degrees - not right angles. I agree. Phillips and pozidrive are both outdated. Camout is too easy. Over here (New Zealand) square drive are overtaking ph/pz in availability and are much nicer to use. Torx are not so common, but the few I've tried have been a pleasure to...

Ditto for New Zealand. Cheers, Vann.

Of Swallows and Amazons fame? ;) Cheers, Vann.

I agree. I look forward to his fortnightly videos. The other one I follow is "Acorn to Arabella" - two guys, 100 miles from the sea, building a boat mostly from timber sourced on the property. Nearly finished planking (no! not that sort of planking ;)). Weekly videos. It's interesting to watch...

Wanten waste IMHO. We had a 1912 building about 1km away, knocked down in 2012. Just smashed up with a digger. I snuck down one night and half-inched a couple of largely intact lengths of 6" x 4". I think it's New Zealand kauri - a beautiful timber that you can't buy for love nor money these...

Ah. You know far more about them than I do then. Wallace has rebuilt a few RS lathes. He might know the answers. Cheers, Vann.

A yoke, but also known as the 'Y' lever. If the repair is well done there's no reason the plane wouldn't work as intended. The resale value would be greatly reduced, but that doesn't matter if it's being kept for sentimental value. On the other hand, if the alignment is poor, or the heat of...

Interesting question. I'm trying to figure out where you're coming from with this. I don't have an RS so I can't answer the first part of your question. I suspect the second part indicates you have the tailstock-end leg for a different size lathe. The RS came in 6", 8" and 10" centres. All used...

I don't know about modern DOL starters, but the older models of MEM starter I have on a few of my machines (Memota and Startex) can be wired for 3-phase or single phase. So chances are that the DOL starter on your machine may have been rewired from 3 to single phase - and could be wired back to...

It's the A2 steel LN insist in using for their irons. A2 might be better at edge holding on problem wood, but unnecessary for most woodworking. Harder to sharpen, and not as keen an edge as O1. Cheers, Vann.

I like the bling of new premium tools but I'm too tight to buy many. You don't need new premium tools to do good work, but a well made tool helps - especially in these days where hands-on tuition is hard get and we have to try to figure things out from the internet. I've splashed out and bought...

I have a No.52 (and a used No.53 awaiting fitting in it's place). I use CSK machine screws - installed using a stubby screwdriver. As Jules mentions above, woodscrews from the outside may be easier from the front jaw, but require removing the vise to fit the rear liner - which is a big PITA...