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So this is just a side note really on T&G, it is simple to machine it out, it’s another beast entirely getting it out spot on. Attention is paid to a number of things, but critically it’s the size of boards and the allowance for expansion, the fit between the tongues and the grooves, and the fit...

I can place the curves on the rod, and using my centre square I can cut, butt and stagger them together. Making sure with a square it’s in the correct position And that’s the curve out and done. Glued, clamped and then screwed and plugged from behind. A light sand and it’s ready to be...

Well the gate is almost finished now so i can take you pretty much write up to the end. Here is the two posts, they are a finished size of 120mm (just shy of 5” in old money) you can get the lumber in that size but it is a shiny penny so two pieces of 3” laminated up does the job, i surface...

Alright Johnny, I very rarely make the same thing twice, but have made all manner of things in the past that they all overlap each other in the end. I have made lots of pergolas before, never the same but variations on a theme. I guess you mean the huge Oak pergola? Thanks for the interest

My pleasure, I am pleased you enjoyed it. I will post up one more time on it showing the posts and headed frame with the gate in it as the finished article! I should have it done by Tuesday 🤞😃

Thanks. This will remain natural, it’ll weather down to a silvery grey colour in time and that’ll be that.

hi Johnny thankyou for the compliment and the interest. It’s a lot more usual to make something like this bare faced to avoid what you have pointed out, however this was the way the client wanted it so what I do is end grain seal the bottom of each board (takes 5 minutes all in) and then apply...

Thankyou Foxbat. I suppose it depends where on the ladder you are at. As a hobbyist or someone who has a keen interest this may seem technical and I appreciate that. This post was to really demonstrate an alternative method of jointing up, I hope it is of interest and you never know someone may...

7/8 wedges for my 7/8 mortices, looking for nice straight grain here as I’ll give these some welly when I drive them home. Wedges are snugged up and ready for flushing up, I’ll hack them off with the Disston and no.5 them smooth. I put a strap around the top to keep it solid while the...

Dry fit to check the grooves are all good, a quick look at the rod to get the dims for my T&G and off we go I’ve worked it out so it’s all even across the board, six across plus two wider end boards to go into the groove. It’s a dark art machining boards that are just right, take a bit of...

I am back on the gate now and it’s nearing completion, next up was to halve in the curved head, which as I have previously explained is a doddle doing it like this. As you can see there is loads of room for playing around until it’s spot on, i have a good 3/8 to keep coming down to find the...

I am placing the curve on top of the gate here and all I need to do is mark up the shoulders and halve it, I have loads of adjustment if I need it to get it really tight (it needs to be spot on top and bottom as when I flush cut it on the joints they will break out if they are not snugged up to...

Just trying the shoulder sizes to get the correct width, all is well here so I’ll tenon the other two and cut the haunches in, then I can lay it up on the rod and start marking the laps With the rails fitted in and the gate clamped up dry I can set it up on the rod and mark exactly where my...

The head of the curved section ready for marking out, this is where a big advantage to this method comes into play. From this photo you can see that I am leaving about 3/8 on instead of the usual 1/8 or so for machining, I shall let you know why a bit further down the line. The spindle...

It’s been a while since I have posted anything up here as it’s been pretty busy and fairly run of the mill stuff, I am in the process of making a semi circular headed side gate, and although it’s not particularly interesting i do sometimes make these in an alternative way to a bridle joint and...

I personally use the French made Stanley Powerlocks. They cover all the bases of a tape measure. Tru-zero hook end with 3 rivets for accuracy and strength, a decent belt clip, a nail hook for solo events always gets used, the Mylar coating lasts an age on them I have one I use a lot that’s up 15...

I don’t mind any questions what so ever! Thanks for having a look at the thread/post. I believe the gardeners will bed some top soil around the plates up to whatever height they need, and then there will be planting around each post, I don’t think the plates will be visible at all after that.

I use a MK1 and a MK2 at my work almost daily, they are superb drills. They never ever miss a beat, it will do you countless years of good service I have no doubt. Enjoy.

Thanks for the interest and replies to the thread over the past few weeks, I am pleased you enjoyed it. Scotty