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I love traditional materials but was linseed on its own ever used as exterior paint? Does it indeed extend the life of exterior joinery? Is it ever worth stripping alkyd gloss to replace with linseed? All questions that need a scientific answer rather than opinion. A previous poster suggests...

If he was casting rounders it was almost certainly Fred lambert. Peter hindle ran ashem crafts who then took up the rounder baton. And still making them up until a few years ago. They are and were quite expensive which ends up as a big problem when selling to hobby workers. They are not common...

310 spt

Once every year or so I hone and clean this takes an hour or so. The knives are unsetable anyway. Bear in mind I use mine 8 hours daily(on and off)

I love my axminster spiral p/t it's not as perfect as it could be but If you are a hobby worker I doubt you'd ever need to change blades. It's solid enough that once it was set it's stayed that way for years. I occasionally hone the tips on a diamond stone. The thicknesser can't take huge bites...

I've worked on enough old timber to know using normal trad materials they can last just fine. But neglect and poor water management(dodgy gutters) can leave them in such a state its hard to know what to do....it must be the paint/putty/wood etc. Then the inevitable upgrades start linseed paint...

I'm with you linseed paint is mostly hokum smoke and mirrors. But it must have something to recommend it. Dulux weathershield I have found to be a good paint albeit trickier to use than some(it needs thinning in trade guise and tends to rapidly skin as its got lots of driers) me and...

My own feeling is rustic is very lacking in the world!

There probably best at putting a tenon on having a tightly controlled and bushed exit hole. Whole components can be a bit bent and have lines on but they do work if your not fussed about slightly rustic.

Oh sorry . The ashem rounders are unmistakable having ashem cast in the body. I know Fred regularly cast these on courses but I'd never come across any. The record spokeshave bits look to be from the seventies a151 stamped on them. I do love the slightly rustic but solid feel. Griffin made...

I made my entire kitchen over a few months. I used maple faced poplar lightweight ply which because birch wasn't available then was the best available and is still a great choice although birch is now available. The fronts were all solid beech as the face frames were beaded and thin maple faced...

Maybe one for sgian dubh? Who met the man I believe.

I've just got some Fred lambert rounders. I can never resist these and there I'm great nick. There not the normal ones or even the Griffin ones but some that look to predate those styles a bit. Anyone seen the sort? Maybe they were cut down to work on a lathe/stail engine. Even the wooden ones...

Don't plunge cut these solid wood worktops honestly that saw will spit out when the wood tension grips the blade. Composite worktops are fine but solid wood isn't safe. More specifically I've had v dodgy moments when cutting along the grain. Not an issue on the cross grain. Plunge saw or not use...

First off never plunge cut solid worktops. Its lethal. The chance of kick is very high. So it's jigsaw only. The rest is new coarse blade and pendulum. Mafells are OK as jigsaws and don't wander off to much but they can rattle and shake for a reason I've never quite sussed. They will cut nice...

Another observation is thickness of the sides can be variable as long as the fingers protrude past the thickest side.

Another thing I pondered was how making 2 props that snug into 2 opposite corners an immensely strong item could be made. As the only weakness is it collapsing like a paralellogram.

Also by cutting a guide board using the same set up its easy to ensure a full finger at the board ends.(just measure your board. It would involve reverse working if your making drawers I guess ie make the drawer then make thole

One thing that did cross my mind was by tilting the work forward or back multi sided boxes could be possible...

The 2 index pins will close down enough for a sawblade as long as its flat topped.so narrow fingers are fine But I can't see how the jig would cut gaps wider than that using a narrow blade. If its possible then It would be a faff which is kinda against the best aspect of the jig(it's almost...