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In another life I worked on the guys house( at the beautifully named swadlincote) who owned fobco( the drill company) Mr obrien. His garage was floor to ceiling with bearing boxes that were storing stuff! Literally thousands.

Here's a 200 and a 320 side by side. The 200 is a baldwin and the 320 is a james. 320 has an extra knuckle. Both 3 inch.

Ps I also think bead butt is quite a bit better at shedding water off the face of the door the plant on bead tending to trap water around the panels end grain.

At this stage you need the plant on beads. So make a stick the exact thickness from the rebate to the top of the panel and plane an identical bead to the ones on the panel sides. Rip this off the exact size to the shoulder this being the critical dimension. Finally mitre this bead so the inside...

And started chopping both down and toward the line. Eventually working from the rebate edge but always chopping straight down. And being careful not to cause damage to the beads

Next I gauged a line to exactly the shoulder of the bead using a disc marking gauge that fits on top of the rebate for accuracy. I then knifed that line as deep as I could using a ruler.

Thought I'd post this showing how I went about making bead flush panels. First off make bead butt panels(these have the bead only along the long grain of the panel simply butting up to the framing) bead flush have the slightly more long winded extra of a long grain bead mitred into the panel. I...

Those handles seem really straightforward tbh. I would not vary your design and after a few hundred you won't need to measure. Upskill don't upgrade. Alternatively find someone who does copy turning.

Anyone know the difference between 200 and 333? Seem to recall 333 are really thick but the old grey matters failing me here.

There's quite a few on ebay at the moment. Might buy a stack.

That's looks dreadfully made. See how they have only made a pattern for oneside. The baldwins were made without a pin believe it or not. One side was made and the other side cast in using stuff to stop them catching to tightly.quite a process. There are other makers of Ci hinges from the past...

I would make in beech and ply. But each to there own I guess. The hardest bit is the curves on the coat rack. The brackets underneath are cod and just decorative( and waste space) I personally would make that much sturdier looking finish at 1 inch thick on the doors(min). 60 to 75 mm wide rails...

Air dried isn't really telling how much useable wood you'll end up with. It's Ash so it's for the inside but in its current condition cannot be used inside.

I'm cautious not to buy very expensive furniture as if ever you try to sell anything its heartbreaking to think I spent more on the hinges than your offering for the whole thing! I even avoid hinges that aren't made by myself for just that reason.

Ps I love any project like this as it so unpompous and practical and something that truly benefits from being well made( the next one will be very delicate I think)

It's amazingly evocative of childhood if your a certain age. They aquired a certain patina in use. They were always pine. With a few brads in the tenons. I thought leather might make a nice hinge as well. There certainly a challenging project as a one off because each bay has 16 separate joints...

That was really tough material to be fair. We used to get school backpacks made from same stuff in blue green and khaki.

I am intending to use French linen webbing for the hinges as is tradition. Although I prefer old inner tube offcuts but they look a bit utilatarian!

They all seem to be square and flat and they should be relatively easy to hinge together.

Showing through and blind tenons. Unfortuneatly the previous photo doesn't properly show the squaring device in use.ill take a better pic tomorrow.