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Ditto. Air assisted airless is even better imho. But if your spraying 2k or solvent based a compressor and devilbiss is the best(still). The trouble with these is there really noisy and run very hot. I do use one for lacquer a 4 stage graco it's good for this just deafening. I much prefer graco...

I would even suggest a slot morticer is a far superior device.

I found the smaller one fine though

It just didn't allow the faces of things to line up as well as I would like. It was not precise at all.

I'm fascinated what the issues were with this lovely box. And how was the central runner carried out.

If your spraying water based through a 9.5 you really need to heat the paint to make it fluid. Heated hoses are superb on airless as well. But beyond the scope of our discussion. Heating paint effectively when air atomising is tricky tbh(the air is cold) Hvlp will spray solvent based paints and...

By the time it's thinned enough to spray the coating is 50% water and highly compromised. The same with oil really. (If it even atomises) with a 9.5 blower and a 1.8 needle it's borderline with water based tbh. Rent an airless.

£60 hvlp will struggle. In fact hvlp and water based will struggle. You'll waste your effort. And get real frustrated. But it's all good experience! If it can't spray heavy undiluted paint it won't work.

Johnstones did fat hog black China and they were good to. Bit stiffer than Hamiltons.

There absolutely the best for oil based paint. There being phased out because oil based is not as popular and natural bristles are becoming really pricey. Suitable synthetic alternatives (purdey monarch Pro elite say)are ridiculously expensive. Dulux centre have no bristle brushes in stock.

If you do ebay shops are still selling hamilton perfection black China bristle brushes!

My reading of this is anybody whose actually done much favours oil in fact specifically weathershield.(not my favourite) but I think you've made your choice to spray water based glazing with putty substitute. Which is fine of course....

I would test the adhesion of water and oil based on your frames. Let your patches dry properly then stick tape to it and pull it off.

Only the Taiwan bits have 3/4 shank I think.

I've found those trend sets amazing value. There decent quality. Tooling and jigs are the key things that make a router so so versatile.(you can often make the jigs yourself but the tooling has to be brought. The only cheaper way is used imho.

Southern yellow pine

Helicoil

I think the search for a one magic paint that eliminates rot is a wrong headed line of investigation altogether. Maintenance was much much cheaper and so was continuous, when labour was super cheap. Even well off middle class struggle with 6 year maintenance cycles needed. What the article...

It's far from simple if it's a half nice kitchen. If it 5 base units and a straight top...easier. if the only motivator is money then don't. I've seen £15000 kitchens butchered. It makes little sense. Imagine being baffled by seemingly the simplest little step and put yourself in those shoes...

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/journals/conservation-journal/issue-44/problems-associated-with-the-use-of-gloss-house-hold-paints-by-20th-century-artists/ This goes some way toward explaining how different oil/alkyd paints were formulated and the time periods.