Search results

Looks great. I just wish they were a bit closer to Cambridge!

Hi Phil, where are you?

You don't say for sure that you're using a planing machine rather than a hand plane, but I'm assuming the former. It sounds very much as if you have the outfeed table set a bit too high (or if it's fixed, the knives are a bit low). This results in there being a tiny bit too much wood resting on...

This is old (30-40yrs) and is not currently working although I have had it going many times in the past. It just wouldn't work when I came to use it last, and I needed it in a hurry so bought a new small dehumidifier and the Ebac has just sat there. It's heavy so unless you are near Cambridge...

Is there anyone out there who knows how to do this? I have two sanders and a router which have the old ribbed socket. The hose is always falling off, no matter how well I put it on. I'm wondering if there's a clever 3D printed part to convert to the newer bayonet fitting?

Hi Adam, I have a friend who is a proper stonemason. The way he does mouldings in stone is very different from how a modern woodworker would do the same in wood- just wondering if you've looked into this as in the early days the techniques may have been much closer. His method includes making...

I agree. Truly impressive.

Hi, the stuff I have used has been pretty good. It's made from two thick plies running along the board, sandwiching a thinner ply running across. It's made from a fairly soft hardwood. I don't think you really need the 1.5mm ply- veneer either side would be perfect. I have used it many times and...

This is part of the British pavilion at the Venice biennale. It’s about 2.5-3m high and is made from ebonised ash.

It's all taken apart for finishing at the moment- the attached is the only photo I have. There are three doors- the right hand one is open and you can see the edge. The other two make up most of the long run of ribs.

I've just about finished a project with 90mm thick doors. The solution I found is to use pivot hinges, set in from the edge of the door by about 100 mm. I had to sculpt out curved recesses in the elements nex to the doors to allow them to open, plus the shelves are a bit wierd! However, it does...

I use it a lot for making jigs etc. I think it's pretty durable- I've gone to use jigs I made 10- 15 years ago and found them as strong as ever.

One thing you could check is if there's any resin buildup on the teeth. This can cause the blade to wander.

I think it will be the relationship between the outfeed fence and the cutter. Using the bearing and a straight edge is easy but it does rely on the bearing being exactly the same diameter as the cutter which is not as common as you might think. If you use a straight edge on the outfeed fence and...

I have had problems in the past with the way the phases are wired up- in that case this caused the motor to run backwards. Could your problem be something similar?

A small vertical belt sander? They seem to go for £150-500 or so. Or a power file held in a jig? £50 or so.

I've worked with a lot of handmade screws and those are definitely handmade. It's not just the blunt ends, it's also the shape of the threads, the thinness of the slots, the lack of any taper towards the end, the general look. As the OP has already removed all the design amd finish elements of...

The screws are handmade which would date it to before about 1830 if I remember right. The very wide boards also look old.

He Are you mad? Short answer- YES! Long answer- if you aren't too bothered about maximising your storage space and you have large supplies of time and patience, have fun!

I would just fix it to the plasterboard using Fisch fixings- where you use a tool to expand the fixing behind the plasterboard. Most of the load the fixings will be applying to the plasterboard will be downwards- just imagine how much weight you would need to drag one of those fixings down...