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Has anyone tried veneering a shape that's curved in two planes? I am looking at a job which has an element that's basically a huge oak picture frame, 3.1m x2.1m The complication is , 1st that it's a very large section- 290mm x 50mm, with a 400mm radius cove moulding, 2nd that they want the...

If you fancy a bit of Heath Robinson type DIY, here's what I made for my own system about 25 years ago. Recently upgraded with braided steel wire (the old string kept breaking) You pull a green ring to start, and a red to stop. There's a pair of rings by every machine. In the background of the...

Thanks Rob. A lot to think about!

An old client of mine had a large walnut tree in his garden which had to be cut down. He had it planked, and asked me to make him a garden table. I was a bit (!) reluctant as for me, English walnut is the best furniture timber in the world, and should definitely be indoors. He insisted though...

I have one of these. It's well made etc but I have a feeling that it might be harder to use than a keyed one if you have grip problems. You need to get both hands on it.

Just had a quote from Chalco Stamps. £120 plus VAT and P&P. It's quite a lot but for something that will last a lifetime, seems ok to me.

Thanks- I’ve contacted them 😀

I don’t know! I’m waiting for a quote. I’ll post it on this thread when I get it.

A long time ago I got a steel stamp with my name on, for marking tools etc. it was made by Eyre & Baxter of Sheffield. I want to get another one made, but E&B seem to have gone out of business. Does anyone know where I could get one made? Thanks!

Thanks, I’ve done that I hope (!) I’m more concerned about the mechanics getting the old one out and the new one in

I’m changing motors on this machine. It isn’t the AGS everyone on this forum seems to love but its ugly younger brother. I’m just looking for any advice, tips, things to avoid. Thanks for looking!

As someone who is on his third planer/thicknesser, I can tell you for sure that it's the machine, not you. My first two- a Sedgwick and a Robinson- sniped and despite spending a lot of time and money on them I never managed to cure them. The third- a Felder bought new when I had a lot more money...

As this forum demonstrates every day of the year, woodworking is a broad spectrum, and anything that welcomes new people to it can't be bad. Any tendencies any of us might have about being special or better than most can be easily cured with a few reels on Insta.

Hi Paul, thanks but it's definitely not that- I was very careful, especially with the example I posted. There was a comment earlier about blunt cutters which I took onboard- going to get a nice new one and see how it goes. Pete

Using the smaller Domino machine, I've noticed that sometimes the slots are slanted-always the same way. I reckon it's to do with the rotation of the cutter, which makes it climb in one direction and drop in the other. I've tried to cure it by going in very slow, not ideal in production. If...

Hi, I don't think the filler will dissolve. When it says it is water based, it means that it's water soluble until it cures- like PVA. I have done a few floors like yours and my solution was to rip long wedge-shaped strips from old floorboards usually ranging from 0mm to 4mm at the sharp edge...

No, this was Polyvine- how new is Ureka and is it different? If so, apologies to Ureka!

I have. It's rubbish. I wasted a stack of veneer and several hours work. I went back to PVA.

There's no point in trying to get a biscuit dead centre, as there's always variation in the thickness of sheet materials. As HOJ says above, just keep in mind which surface you're using as a reference. An off-centre slot can be a help sometimes as it shows for sure which way round the piece goes.

The 4mm spacer would have the effect of lowering the blade in the machine which would help if you're biscuiting thin timber.