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As you say there's a risk the drawers could be left or become jammed open so there's no way a building inspector could pass them. If the inspector doesn't see the choice and risk is yours. Make sure handles don't present a trip hazard, cutouts might be best. The photo looks good but to avoid...

Looks ok , if you want more strength in the cross grain corners you could stack one inch pieces with opposite grain patterns or make it from stacked ply.

If the treatment was water based I'd give it at least a fortnight drying before fixing. If it's solvent based ( you'll be able to smell) then it'll still need a few days. I would fix cup up if it's noticable but the main criteria for selection would be best face.

I like concrete screws as there's no need for a plastic sleeve and the hole diameter is smaller. The 6 mm diameter and 70 or 80 mm length should do. For the floor fixing if there might be anything in the slab then clean the area with a wet cloth and use pu wood glue while it's still a bit damp.

If it's old slate in the UK it will be good low carbonate stone. An acid brick cleaner used neat will be ok to use and will be effective and won't stain, bleach or degrade it at all .

For a small dinghy you should be able to find some suitable wood in any timber or builders merchants, youl just have to look through the stack to get the right piece. If you want perfect clear and straight you can get aircraft spruce which is a grade used for glider repairs, try Severn valley...

HOJ I've seen plenty of windows like that in Norfolk but never had to make one. I think the heavy section and paint was an attempt to copy the stone mullions of the posh houses. If I had to make one I would laminate in sections, that way you could get the shapes off the spindle moulder. Some I...

Underfloor heating won't work well with too much insulating wood on top and the timber won't like it much either, with reclaimed stuff you could get a lot of movement troubles. An engineered timber floor designed to go over underfloor heating and glued or loose laid as per instructions would be...

Those posts look like treated timber,are you sure you want to plane that all off ? If they're a bit hairy from treatment a light sand should tidy them up without losing all the treatment. If the posts are to big for your mitre saw use a new hardpoint hand saw, you should be able to get a good...

An open door or window could work better for free.

You could use a small head screw like the tounge tite ones for floor laying, they would make your fileing quicker. I have seen cracks and shakes in a floor filled with molten lead ,it looked good but not sure if it's a good idea.

Some small angle brackets 25 x25 mm as used by kitchen fitters should do the job.

Sharp/ new blade is key. I have done similar decorative ends with a long Bosch jigsaw blade, not perfect but plenty good enough for a roof and bringing the tool to the work is a lot easier than a big piece on a band saw.

I've no idea what a 1D survey is but a topographic survey is relatively simple. It is basically accurately mapped contours. In a small area you could do that yourself with a large scale plan from your deeds and a laser level and tape measure. If you employ surveyors count on two guys for a day...

The shelving system will give you a max weight. Spacing is usually 800 mm so only two uprights needed on the meter run.

I don't know about the new made in China ones but I had an older model which was very good. The double sided blades are cheap and quick to change which makes a big difference to the quality of finish. The thicknesser is fine and the small block means the rollers are close together so snipe is...

I would put your money into insulation and draught proofing possibly with a heat recovery and ventilation system , though I'm not sure how the filters for a mvhr will cope with a dusty enviroment. A heat pump and underfloor heating are a very capital expensive way to heat and if you insulate...

As above with compound interest ( interest on the interest) it makes a difference when the interest is calculated and applied , daily/ monthly/ annually etc

From the photos it looks as if there is one staggered split opened along the floor. I think the glue covered tongue can be seen in some photos. As the split is at the joints not within the boards this is not a manufacturing problem but a fitting one. A floating floor should be free to expand and...

Spectra / dyneema halyard rope from a chandlers should work. No need to splice most knots will hold, bends will tend to slip though.