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Yes but this modern petrol is rubbish, I remember when £20 worth would last a whole week now it's only a couple of days.

If it's going in the ground then class 4 treated will last alot longer than larch dipped in preservative or use concrete as suggested above.

If it's timber windows you can chop out the old sill and put in a new wider one doweled and glued on but the aluminium oversills are easier and quicker. For pvc you need the oversills . For any window an extension under the existing sill can be used but doesn't look as neat. Edit : while you're...

Timber will gain or lose moisture till it's in equilibrium with it's environment , which will often change seasonally indoors and out. How fast that happens depends on timber type, size any coatings and the environment it's in. House dry timber will probably be a bit dryer ( have a lower mc)...

Depending on the type PVA can be a good glue for wood or doing craft with the kids or as surface preparation before plastering or tiling. It's not a paint though. If you want a paint, varnish or stain use one of them. If you do have glue on the surface clean it off before finishing.

You can use plastic into a compression fitting with the insert but if the fitting is short there's not much engagement with the speedfit type as the sleeve is quite long,the olive can end up right on the end of the pipe. I have the same water heater, I used chromed copper to below worktop then...

Are you sure the blade is in the right way round? It should cut that little stick in a couple of seconds. Also saw safety ,HSE have a short guide, a saw cutting properly will do fingers very quickly too.

Either would seem ok, if there are significant moisture/ temperature changes natural timber may twist and cup whereas laminated chipboard won't ,though it will disintegrate if wetted for long periods. Thick ply at 25 or 32 mm might be worth considering .

That's sanded up well. Great job.

Your sketch plan looks ok, why not draw it out on graph paper then you'll have the plans you want.

Fit tight, it's more likely to shrink than swell unless it's very dry now .

It's probably worth checking the lining as well. If they're only nailed on they can warp and twist and bind on the door. A good look and you should be able to see if they have moved then you can persuade it back with a hammer and fix with screws.

You'll definitely need to sand before finishing and possibly to denib between coats so a random orbit sander will be essential really. Buy the best you can afford, festool or mirka if feeling rich. There's plenty on finishing birch ply if you search the forums, consensus seems to be that oil...

Some kind of traditional breathable paint would be in keeping and maintain moisture balance in walls and timbers. A modern petrochemical paint may cause problems. For interior I would second clay paints such as eathborn or nutbrown. Council can probably advise on exterior paint.

There's lots of choices out there and personal preference comes into play as well. You can use a stain then top coat or a coloured top coat. Stains can pick up any imperfections in the surface so thoroughly sand to 180 grit at least. Use knotting under paint . Personally I quite like oil...

Do you have solar panels ?

What do people build with locally? That will show you what's cheap at the local merchants and what trades are practised in building with, fancy solutions are often expensive ones.

Go to a builders or timber merchants for reasonable prices and choose UK or European timbers. Southern yellow is imported from North America and will be expensive, it's available in bigger sizes and has fewer knots than Scandinavian reds or UK larch but no easier to work or stronger so not worth...

I have a sofa with exactly that problem. I have drilled an angled hole and used small headed screws to hold the legs in the correct orientation. There doesn't seem to be a way of guaranteeing correct orientation during manufacture. I helped a friend assemble an IKEA sofa a while ago and the leg...

A round slice of oak can't dry without splits forming. You might be able to choose where they go by starting them off with a saw cut. I can't see treating the cut ends would make much difference to splitting but will lengthen drying time.