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For strength the depth of the rails is more important than thickness.I would suggest a 100x22mm minimum a deeper rail could go a bit thinner. The slat support can add alot of strength depending on size. I would recommend a support lengthways under the middle of the slats ,if this is dovetailed...

That's fairly straight. The construction should hold it straight in position. You can lean a board against a wall at an angle and it will bend over time which might straighten them , you'll need to overbend it to end up straight so clamping to a straight edge won't work. With such a small bend...

Apart from the colour it looks just like the Metabo / Electra Bekum one. If you add a zero you would get a very nice planer but for value that's a good price for an ok machine. If it runs the only likely problems are worn rubber rollers and blunt knives. Is there a fence with it?

We have a holiday let, people often comment on how comfy the Ikea mattresses are. I would avoid memory foam as it's too hot.

If you build a tent of tarp or plastic over the stack then moisture from the ground will evaporate during the hot day and condense on the tarp at night leading to a very moist enclosure and mould growth on the wood. A well vented stack off the ground protected from rain by a ply or corrugated...

Lots of these ideas seem use a flat base so it looks like the plane sits on its iron, is that normal? Like Doug B I have the end on a batten to lift the iron off the surface.

A paving slab is not a foundation. You'll need to go through the slab somehow, the bar hammered through a hole idea might work depending on ground conditions. I built a rose arch using that ,idea 22 mm round bar was hammered in up to 1 m then cut off at required level and a washer welded on 200...

Buy a suitable window off one of the many online companies or get one from a scrapyard. Fitting options are a framed one, rubber gaskets or glued in with a special mastic. Measure twice ,cut once.

Depending on size and brand new empty gas bottles are £40-100. There also seems to be a shortage so it may be difficult to get a new one. On the advice of a calor distributor who couldn't supply new I went to my local tip and had a choice of 30+ emptys ,mostly the smaller sizes and plenty of...

The cheapest place to get a cylinder from is your local tip/ recycling center. They are difficult to dispose off so they'll have a pile to give away ,then you go to a garage and exchange for a full one. Calor etc are cheaper than the camping GAZ ones but aren't available to swap abroad.

Those don't look great for a full size door. If you want a 180 degree opening for French doors a parliament hinge might do.

You should remove the topsoil under the blocks but don't need to go deeper than that, you'll find mortar under the blocks means you can level them easily. All the joists need to be supported mid span unless they can do the whole span, a half brick will do but they need something. If you build...

Osmo top oil is fast to dry, faster than osmo polyx or fiddles and I have found it much better wearing and more waterproof than either, I would highly recommend it. Leave time between coats or the second coat will cloud the first

Nothing to do with woodwork but as Toby t says you can register a converted van as a motorhome. I don't know if insurance is cheaper or not but a normal van is only allowed to do 50 mph on A roads whereas a conversion can do the national speed limit of 60 mph . I found this out the £ 60 and...

Poplar? or tulip wood if you're being posh, bark looks right, straight grain no real figuring and light weight.

Concrete blocks will be ok but I suggested lintels or fence posts as they're denser so will be less prone to rising damp and will be easier to level up. Noggins or strutting in floors are needed to stop joists capsizing if the joist is tall relative to its width and the span is over 2.5 m which...

I would consider concrete lintels, these are dense concrete which will be better than light weight blocks and will be easy to level , the 3x4 ones will be quite cheap. Your floor design has a lot of superfluous timber, if you space the joists out to 400 centres it will be stronger and less...

Or equally it may hold water against the OSB, when it's laid directly on boards not spaced off with battens this is more likely to happen. Cavity venting as per Canadian thing is important to reduce moisture in the cavity, insect mesh to the top and bottom is worthwhile to keep wasps out.

I would suspect water coming under walls rather than through the roof particularly if there's a problem with gutters or puddles form outside. If there's no broken bits of roofing or open fixing holes it's unlikely to be a roof leak.

Not really needed the OSB sheathing is a vapour barrier anyway and will be ok if some water gets behind the cladding and on to it as long as the cavity is ventilated. You could have missed out the OSB and saved a bit of cash.