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Looking at your images, it makes me think of precision lapping machines. In fact that is what it is. So the parts most critical to quality will be a flat, rigid disk spinning with low vibration. Rotational forces are probably not too high. I am reminded of a hifi turntable platter. Heavy and...

:) Lighter fluid (naptha) is a good solvent for sticky labels. I find it works better than IPA for this task in most instances. IPA is a really good degreaser and as rubbing alcohol mixed 70:30 with water, it's very useful for all sorts of cleaning tasks.

Look at motors under the parvalux name for an example of specifically small stuff.

The first thought is an ac induction motor because they can be entirely sealed and good for dirty dusty environments. 2 pole, common motors are 2800 rpm. 120W is a little under 1/5 of a horsepower. Unfortunately it will be bigger than your dimensions. More compact will be a brushed universal...

All the samples in the thread linked from the 3rd post here are from Tuffsaws. They have a good reputation here and Ian is very helpful. If Bedford Saws are good, please let us know.

Thanks. You did good. I'd have been entirely happy with one like that.

Ripping 50mm thick, you need a coarse blade capable of clearing stringy, fibrous chips. Softwood can be worse than hardwood for this. Think 3 or 4 tpi. For stability, a wider blade helps, probably as wide as your saw is capable of tensioning properly. The chances are your blade isn't any of...

But haven't reached your prime yet :)

Sadly I've had to open a return request as not only was the condition poor, but also only 1 box was shipped vs the 3 that I bought :-( Eyes open for other sellers listing these if many pallets full were auctioned off. Edit : seller says all 3 of mine were shipped, just in multiple shipments...

I can't speak for your brake so check the datasheet when you track it down. I imagine it will take any two phases (from L1, L2 and L3) and it won't matter which as they are all equivalent. It wouldn't make sense for it to require one phase and neutral as the rest of the motor won't need a...

Anyone tempted by these systainers, based on the first one delivered to me today, they've had a fairly hard life. Not broken but dirty, well scuffed and adhesive residue from old stickers on 4 surfaces. You'll need a can of lighter fuel and a heap of big wipes to make them more respectable...

King Tut ? Damn !

Yeah. The 3-4-5 triangle dates back to Pythagoras. I strongly suspect the 5 cut method predates youtube, the internet, William Ng, computers and probably tablesaws :) Chances are there's a piece of papyrus somewhere with a drawing of a bloke testing his new set square ... In the not too distant...

Here is an explanation of the principle behind DC injection braking https://electrical-engineering-portal.com/methods-braking-motor The key concept is that a dc voltage that is much lower than mains voltage is connected across any two of the three motor wires and this creates the braking...

Be aware, there may not be anything wrong with the DC brake. They are a device that have to be configured for the specific motor and application. This may have been done wrongly or inadvertently changed. Don't assume it is defective until you have identified it, obtained the datasheet and...

A generic contactor + thermal overload can be bought new for under £40. A DC injection brake is typically several hundred pounds, (or £250 for a good used one such as I sold on ebay a year or so back). Just so that you understand where the value lies. It would grieve me to swap out a...

The catalogues at Wealden will give you an idea of what is available. They are a good supplier. Better than Trend, Axminster, etc. https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Router_Cutters_1.html

They are long out of production and Kity was bought by Scheppach. Look at images and see if the machine continued in production for a while under a Scheppach model number. What parts may still be available are most likely to be in France but you are decades late to the party ...

If that was regards the steel / aluminium pan, why ? Stainless is a good material for the inside of a pan because it's durable and easy to maintain. Aluminium, even alloys, conduct heat much better than stainless. Induction cooking needs a ferrous base and high carbon stainless seems pretty...

I think I may be trying one of those. Although we tend to use and wear out the thin cheap Tefal versions specifically because we want a light weight wok, I picked up a KitchenAid heavy aluminium frying pan on a whim and find the thick aluminium is great for distributing the heat and preventing...