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Another video of the DC09 chair by the Scandinavian–Japanese duo Inoda + Sveje in 2011. Regards from Perth Derek

I fitted the legs then decided that the seats made were not good enough. There was run out at the tenons which placed them at risk or breakage. So ... deep breath ... they are canned. The tenons will be re-made with loose tenon stock, where I can control the grain durection. Sometimes it is an...

Cutting up Rock Maple for chairs ... In the background are Jarrah and Maple boards. Regards from Perth Derek

We ended up last time with the sides cleaned up and the tenons cut to angle ... The tenons were now sized to correct width ... ... pared ... .. and rasped to width .. I made a template to ensure each would later be a tight fit ... So now we have two chair blanks with a semi-shaped...

Time to saw the tenons. I have gone back-and-forth on doing it this way. I can understand why so many builds use loose tenon joinery. Simply, it is easier to do so than creating integral tenons. It also makes it possible to shape the seat fully separately, especially the perimeter. The seats...

Especially after today, this build really feels like a step forward, a step sideways, and then a step forward again ... cha cha cha .. I really do know where I am going, and what has to be done, even if it does not seem that way! :) Templates would have made the process easier. So where are...

Andy, on the WoodHaven forum, left a message which was remarkably predictive of what I had planned to write. Andy, spot on! In fact, you preempted the very topic I planned to write. Everything in furniture building requires forward planning. This is even more the case where, as here, these...

The initial carving of the second seat ... time to learn something from the initial carving of the first seat! Rock Maple is bloody hard stuff. I have used a scorp to quickly carve Pine and Tasmanian Oak. I used a scorp to scoop out the first seat, and it was not fun in 37 degrees Celsius (98...

Shaping the legs have been set aside until the seats are carved. Shaping the seats is a challenge I have been looking forward to, but I must admit that two days have passed, and there is not much to show for a lot of effort. Let's have a look at the design of the seats. The notable feature of...

Many years ago I have a lunchbox Delta. I used it a half dozen times over the course of several years as it wailed like a demented banshee, and there were complaints from the next neighbourhood away. About 10 years ago I purchased a Hammer A3-31 jointer-thicknesser, which was my most expensive...

I have the Makita and its clone, the Katsu. The Makita is the better and, likely, more reliable of the two, but in practice the main difference lies with the run out. The Makita is excellent, and the Katsu ordinary. Replacing the router bit holder solved this. Just one more expense and then you...

A well-executed hollow grind, such as as close to the edge as possible, significantly speeds up honing (as there is less steel to work). The hollow is also the smallest jig for sharpening! Regards from Perth Derek

The question I have is whether to keep the ends of the mortices round, or square them off? Square ends make for easier square (hand cut) tenons .. integral to the seat), but round ends will look better - in keeping with the round legs. Regards from Perth Derek

After some discussion, and a sudden increased awareness of dining room chairs, I decided to level the seat in profile ... The seat will not end up horizontal, however, but be curved across the width, and further carved for extra depth at the butt end. This is a basic template for the seat...

The design of the chair needs to compliment the bentwood chairs we have, which are original and early 1900s. The table is to be replaced with a longer, wider one. This table is over 200 years old, and has great sentimental value. It is built of Yellow Wood (top) and Stinkwood (legs). We...

Excellent. Regards from Perth Derek

My MC is used in a Elu 177e, which is the same as a DW 625. I purchased it several years ago. It must be "standard" as I was aware of any other version. Regards from Perth Derek

Steve and Tweedy (and everyone, of course) ... There is a build of a dovetail saw on my website, which includes sharpening and setting the teeth: https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MakingADovetailSaw.html Here is the sharpening and setting info: Part Two – Filing and Setting the...

That face vise is predominantly to hold work for planing, not for sawing. In any event, I suspect the issue is not so much being right-handed, but being right eye dominant (as most right handers are). This causes one to have an issue with parallax when sawing to the left side of the line...

Agree about the late Ken Hawley. He left a legacy of an amazing collecion of videos. When setting small teeth, such as for dovetailing, I mark the alternate teeth with a felt tip marker, and use magnifying glasses. Marking alternate teeth plus good light is key. Regarrds from Perth Derek