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Right. I understand the principle. But it doesn't always work. When I was face jointing I would often encounter situations where there was a clear hump and yet the plane wouldn't cut. My impression is that they usually had something to do with twist, but really, I'm not sure. (The other...

I started trying to edge joint 4 ft long boards. The wood is quartersawn American cherry. The last time I tried to do this I gave up and used an electric router with a guided bit. But armed with the methods described by Charlesworth in his dvd using a cambered blade and taking stop shavings...

I've been shimming the work so I don't think flexing of the work explains my difficulty in removing the bump. The long planes I have are a Clifton #7 and a Veritas bevel up jointer. I think the Clifton has a couple thou depression around the mouth. The Veritas isn't perfect either, but I...

I've been trying to flatten rough boards 4 ft long and 5-8 in wide. And I think think things could be going faster and better. My original technique for this was to deliberately make the board concave along its length by taking cross-grain shavings and then to try to fix it by taking shavings...

I cut a pile of wedges to use for shims. It seems like having constant thickness shims would make it difficult to get it just right. Do you put in some hardboard and then several sheets of paper, say.

I was flattening faces of wood which I eventually glued up into a panel. I considered them flat enough when my straight edge would not admit the 4 thou feeler anywhere. I cut dovetails at the ends. The boards were 2.5-3 feet long and 6-8" wide, so a 4 thou error in that length isn't going to...

But shimming is unavoidable regardless of your bench when neither side of the wood is flat. As it happens, I have a thickness planer that I use for the second side so I have not yet been in the situation of trying to work a face whose other side was flat. (Well, ok, I did a 6"x6" piece and a...

It seems like shimming with the convex side up should be easier, but I vaguely recall that the shims would rapidly work loose whereas it seemed much more solid and stable if I shimmed the concave side up. I'll have to revisit the shimming.

I decided early on that it was easier to shim a the timber with the convex side down than it was to shim it with the concave side down. So I've been in the habit of starting with the concave side up. Now the method Charlesworth presents with stop shavings would seem to be better suited to...

The clifton #7 I have is actually the second one. I returned the first one because the frog was crooked, so when the cut was uniform, the mouth size would vary quite visibly over its width. This made it very difficult for me to set the tool for a uniform cut, because I do that by making the...

After I took delivery of this wood I stored it in a stack with 1 inch spacers between the boards for about 3 months, so I believe it should be in equilibrium with the environment (my basement, where the shop is). This wood is also quarter sawn, which I think means it should tend to keep its...

I'm flattening a 4' long board (and I have no powered jointer). I removed the rough saw marks and have found that the surface is concave by about 1/8". I'm wondering: what is the fastest, most efficient way to proceed to end up with a flat (or just slightly concave) board? Does it make...

My clifton #7 is about 3 thou hollow at the mouth, if I recall correctly. I was having exactly the same problem as the original poster. I didn't try taking a heavier cut as a solution.

Which links was I supposed to follow? I don't see any. I was arguing that the cap iron should not affect performance on difficult grain, and that it does not turn the plane into a scraper. It appears that you are agreeing with my when you say that a cap iron set to 12 thou has no effect on...

If the plane has a local concavity around the mouth but the rest of the sole is flat (that's plane #2 in the pictures) then it seems to me that you could just extend the blade beyond the depth of the concavity and it should still cut. So if it is 2 thou concave then if you extend the blade 3...

My remark wasn't about why a scraper doesn't produce tear out but rather why it cuts at all if the presence of a mouth is required to enable the plane to cut a fine shaving. This would actually suggest that I could have the plane taking a fine shaving and then if I opened the mouth up it would...

I don't understand. I mean, obviously not having the support in front of the blade is bad, as you have less defence against tear-out. But say you're planing well-behaved straight grained wood in the direction of the grain. In that case, this shouldn't matter much. Wouldn't you be able to...

Lee Valley doesn't have any published specs for the glass plate. I inquired by email and they wrote back that it was 0.01". I asked again and got this reply: Actually "concave" and "convex" are independent of orientation. (But it's still nice to have those pictures.) Why can't plane #2...

As a data point, I asked Lee Valley how flat their "glass lapping plate" is and they say it's flat to 0.01". That would seem to suggest that it's worthless for this application. But granite surface plates that are 25" long are rather expensive. (Heavy too, I'll bet.)

It appears that you have this backwards: This is from http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/archive/index.php/t-14737.html I was curious about the reference issue because tnimble wrote that it was possible to flatten a plane without a reference that is as long as the plane. Unless I...