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For a while I seemed to be getting along OK using my #7 and my LV 5 1/4. When one plane wouldn't cut I found I could usually move forward by switching to the other one. Lateral adjustment remains something of a challenge, but at least I had the #7 adjusted so the cut was sort of close to the...

Thanks for your report. Do you find that the unplanable bump is unplanable both with your #5 and your #6, or does switching between these make a difference? (If the problem is that the plane sees it as two hollows then I would think that switching to a different length plane ought to make a...

I have to admit that part of my reluctance to just try planing two pieces together as a test is that I doubt that I have two similar sized pieces that are jointed flat available to use for a test. (Most of the scraps I have lying around are either narrow or short, hence unsuitable. Anything...

Won't any method become increasingly hard as the boards get longer? The fact that I'm using a short straight edge should make it easier to conclude that things are OK...I'm not sure that's really a major problem. (Though I am planning to get another long straight edge.) I think the fact...

My general approach has been to bring in a coarsely set plane and try to remove the rough saw marks and gross irregularities. Then I check for square to the face and try to fix that. Then at least I try to remove the bump in the length. But, at least last night, the process of removing the...

I tried another board last night. Evidently I still have a problem with the lateral adjustment on my Clifton because I was having a lot of frustration getting and staying square to the face. But the plane was taking off the bumps, or at least almost doing so. Once I got the bump removed then...

It's possible that the profile of the blade changed, as I tried to establish the camber when I sharpened. (Recall that the blade edge appeared to be concave before sharpening.) This might have thwarted my efforts to get a square edge. If a non-square edge presents problems it could have...

My planes have hollows that are around 2-3 thou, as I recall. I didn't test them recently. I've also read in the messages about plane flattening that glass can flex. So if I wanted to risk a plane with the sandpaper approach I need a piece of glass that is very flat and is 1/2 inch thick...

I have nothing against adjusting the shorter plane for a thinner shaving. I wrote that it was set for a thick shaving in the context of trying to recall what I did, and one thing I know I did NOT do was adjust it for a thin shaving. The wood is quarter sawn American cherry. It's a fairly...

Right. But even if it's not directly connected to this particular problem, if I don't get my cambering worked out properly at some point I'll have trouble getting the edge square if not now, then later. I suppose I could try this, though my ripped edges (by bandsaw) tend to be kind of wavy...

Because I was stuck on this for a while, it becomes hazy what exactly I tried or didn't try. I did turn the board around. That didn't seem to help. I think I tried a shorter plane, but now as I think back I'm not sure. (I have the shorter plane set to a really heavy shaving and have been...

I tried that approach with a #5 I got on ebay and the plane got, if anything, less flat as a result of my couple hours of labor over the sheet of glass. So I'm pretty nervous to do it again, particularly on a good plane. As I understand it, that type of approach will tend to give a curved...

The bump is definitely larger than the thickness of the shaving. It's probably something like 5-10 shavings thick. Could even be more than that. But I don't mind taking 5-10 shavings.... On previous board I have removed sizeable bumps that took more than 10 passes of the plane to eliminate...

My plane is 21 inches, I think. The workpiece is 48 inches. I'm below your limit, at less than 2.5 times plane length. I'm curious about the recommended approach for longer, though. I've done this too, but rocking gives me some information about how big of a bump whereas spinning the...

Well, I didn't really think I had a dull blade, because I hadn't noticed any drop in cutting performance. But as I noted in my first message, I inspected the blade and found that it seems to be reverse cambered, with a hollow in the center. (I say "seems to" because I always have uncertainty...

I couldn't find any place where the plane would cut along the edge. So it's possible that I can take stop shavings and the plane won't cut when there's a bump?

If I have to take the boards out of the vise to test for straight and then put them back in and get them aligned together again each time that seems terrible. For some reason, my problem seems to have been interpreted as a measurement problem. I really do not think that I have a measurement...

So the idea is to draw one line and then flip the straight edge over and draw the same line the other way? This could fail if the straight edge is symmetrically out of true, like if it had a hollow or bump right in the middle. I'm not sure what you mean here. Are you saying that when face...

After all that effort trying to camber now I need to go back to straight? :) Thanks for the suggestion. What thickness would you consider this suitable for? My material is 0.85 inches and 1.1 inches in thickness and I had the impression that people mainly like this method for thinner like...

There are a few reasons why I don't blame the straight edge. One reason is that I have already jointed 6 boards and they match up with each other. They do not match up with the board currently on the bench. (They rock against each other, so they meet in a convex way.) My 4 ft straight...