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I started with the plastic handled Veritas that has teeth on both sides of the blade. The teeth are set in one direction. This one is terrible. It rides up in the direction of the set so you still end up with a big lump. It appears from the web page that the single edge one has the same...

Yes, well, I'm still not very good at distinguishing a sharp blade from a sort of sharp blade, so I'm undoubtedly going longer between honings than is optimal. However, the plane was taking reasonably nice shavings up until the end. (Or, at least I thought they were OK.) American Cherry is a...

I have not directly tested how sharp the center of the edge is. Note, however, that if I look at the edge I can see a glint indicating that some sort of rounding over or edge failure has occurred in the centre region. (I used the plane for a long time since the last honing so it would be...

The only compatible blade I have is an old Stanley blade sharpened with an 8" radius for very rough work. I don't think I'd learn anything by putting that blade into the clifton. My other bevel down bench plane is a Veritas 5 1/4 and it has a much narrower blade.

This is a fair question. This was the first bench plane I ever bought. During that 7 years I've been learning how to sharpen, and learning planing technique. Since the cause of this problem remains unknown, it's hard to be very specific about why I never noticed the problem before, but when...

So based on the scratch tests it would appear that the problem is not that the Clifton blade is very soft. Is that right? Or is this test not conclusive? I checked the frog. It appears to be reasonably flat. Suppose I took a freshly sharpened plane and approached the edge I wanted to...

I do use a jig, the Veritas Mk II. Why would this deformation, were it occuring, lead to the observed failure? The corner of the plane very decisively scratches the scraper. The scraper does not scratch the bevel of the plane. I tried in the center about 1mm behind the edge. The back is...

Certainly in his first video on planing he focuses on the use of the cambered blade and the "wandering blade" method. In his book he goes so far as to write "If any reader can explain to me how a square edge is produced with a straight blade -- other than with a shooting board --- I would be...

So you're wondering if the frog is hollow in the center? I can inspect the frog and see if I notice anything odd...but how would this cause the problem I've observed? Wouldn't a frog problem cause chattering or some other sort of misbehavior? (Given that this is a bevel down plane the edge...

In another rather lengthy topic a couple months back, I noted that I have a problem with my Clifton #7. I cambered the blade and worked for a while planing edges and then I discover that the blade is not cambered any more but in fact has gone concave in the center. Someone suggested that I...

I understood this. My observation was that the plane was taking a full width shaving when positioned a certain way over the edge. If I shifted the plane to one side or the other than the shaving would no longer be full width; rather it would remove material only from one side of the workpiece...

The blade where I thought I'd nicked the edge with the honing guide was actually an A2 veritas blade, but I assume that would be less rather than more prone to damage. Clearly I'm going to have to try this process again. Thanks for doing the test! (I noticed that your honing guide has a...

Because the blade is cambered it meets the stop at a single point, so all the forces and stresses that I might apply as I try to get it properly positioned will be focused on one single point of the edge. Even so, you think the aluminum is too soft to damage the blade? (If so, I'll have to...

I don't think so. I was paying attention to where I had to position the plane to achieve a full width shaving and it was staying in the same spot. However, I have not done any adjustments to the frog or lever cap. I worked the chip breaker to get a good fit, but that's about it, I think...

According to Paul Chapman (the "you" in my quote above), he doesn't have a 23 deg bevel. He just has a primary bevel at 30 degrees which he works every time with "coarse and fine diamond stones". He says that one advantage of his way is "you don't have to bother with grinding". You're doing...

In the case of sharpening, there is a huge diversity in recommendations for how to go about it. I have been sharpening (or at least trying to sharpen) for almost ten years now and while I don't claim to be an expert at it by any means, I do have some modest amount of experience and hence some...

I've got some old Parmesan in the back of the refrigerator. Maybe I should try fitting it into the plane and seeing if the performance improves. Hmmm. It hadn't occurred to me to try to photograph this. It just didn't seem like something that would work...but as I think about it now it...

Er, maybe I'm misunderstanding, but this means you're grinding the primary bevel every time you sharpen. If the microbevel is so very small, then chances are I'd need to grind the primary bevel anyway to get rid of the type of rounding I was observing. This would mean that instead of my honing...

I did inspect the edge with my Bellomo Triplet 10x loupe, and it appeared that the glint was due to rounding, but I find it remarkably hard to be sure of what I'm looking at. I think I need a microscope. In any case, it was more damage than I have observed in the past when I have been...

The blade is the original stock Clifton blade and was new when I bought the plane. The amount of blade "used" is negligible. Does Clifton use very soft blades? I suppose I could replace the blade. I was thinking I might raise the bevel angle a bit---I have it at 28 or 29 degrees. It has...