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Funny thing is, I actually had a set of pin punches in the back of a drawer somewhere, forgotten. I didn't know what they were for when I got them. But I got them out and the pin has been removed. Actually tightening the handle seems to be more of a trick, though. There's a sizeable gap...

Thanks for the link to the shrinkulator. I've been doing the computations based on the formulas in Hoadley and this is easier. More wood species, too. I think I got 20 mm because I had been computing for flatsawn maple and then I forgot to change the numbers for quarter sawn cherry.

You mean use a pop rivet to hammer out the pin?

I have 600 mm drawer slides that I'm affixing to a solid wood case. Of course, the drawer slides go in a cross grain direction. I tried to estimate the wood movement of the case and got a large number like 20 mm (that's about 3%). But the drawer slides have tiny mounting slots that are maybe...

I tried to remove the pin using clipped nails. I got it to come out by about 1mm but it refuses to go any farther. I have a bunch of bent clipped nails....

Regarding the crank handles, when you say "remove the handle" you just mean unscrewing the crank arm from the body? Or do you mean somehow taking the rivet apart? I tapped out one of the pins with a nail set and pliers and the pin ended up in pretty bad shape. I suppose the pliers were the...

I've got a couple eggbeater drills (Millers Falls, Goodell Pratt) where the main handle is kind of wobbly. I'm wondering if anybody knows a trick for tightening up handles like this. (The handles seem to be pinned on and I'm not sure I even know how to remove the pin without mangling it.) I...

Many people have posted saying that they have a tiny camber, or they think (or hope) that the center of their blade is flat---they just nip off the corners. This suggests a method where you really wish your blade to be straight, but you need a little camber to prevent those nasty tracks from...

I was wondering if it could mean that my drawers are undersized for the opening. I measured the side to side space at the front (between drawer and case) and found it to be 1/2" on the left and 7/16" on the right. (No clue why it's not even.) Allegedly these slides can tolerate 1/2"+1/32"...

I'm making a file cabinet and I installed the first drawer using Accuride 4043 drawer slides. These are a type with the rails that ride on top of other rails so the whole slide is about 3 inches wide. After installation, I found that it seems to work fine, but the drawer will shift from side...

I've read the Schwarz's workbench book. I made the planing stop from that book, and I've found it works pretty well. (This is a long piece of 1/4" thick material screwed to a board that fits in the vise. You can tip it up if the workpiece is thicker so that the support is not so low. I find...

"I work entirely with hand tools" "What's that loud noise?" "Oh, that's the 2 hp vacuum clamping system" :? Would this requires a special bench with holes in it?

So in the first picture you have the board in the back clamped down and then you're using the vise to clamp from the front? Is that right? So this board could slip along the direction of its grain but appears secure in the perpendicular direction? (I use the word "appears" because I...

When I start working on a rough sawn board, I might want to plane it across the grain (traversing). I might switch to planing on the diagonal. Lately I've been working some curly material with a toothed blade on the diagonal. And then the final finishing strokes are with the grain. I tend...

I'm not sure I understand. Wouldn't the depth of cut determine the depth of groove penetration independent of the bevel angle? The mouth is all the way open. One idea I did have was that initially the wood had scallops left by a fore plane with a rounded blade. I was using the toothed...

I sent my pictures to Lee Valley and they report that my new improved state of operation with a few grooves clogging is normal.

Why would a higher angle make a difference? I can see an obvious downside to a higher angle: harder to push. So I'm curious before I do this why you think it would help?

The blade came with a 38 degree bevel and I honed it a bit higher than that up to the grooves and finished off with a microbevel probably at 40. Would you recommend going higher still? Here are pictures showing the improved result I got after cleaning out the grooves with a wire brush...

You're saying that you think a bevel up toothed blade is an inherently flawed concept? I wonder then why Veritas and Lie Nielsen sell them--they usually think their designs through reasonably well. Paul said he had to grind back his chip breaker, so it sounds like the bevel down configuration...

The blade is a bevel up blade for a bevel up plane bedded at 12 degrees. I don't have a plane that I could fit this blade in bevel down. If I flipped the blade over in the plane I've got I'd have a 12 degree cutting angle