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I remember reading about this process in a set of materials by Jeff Gorman (which sadly seem to have vanished from the web). I suppose I'd have to try this myself to get a feel for it. I also note that a flat reference the size of the plane is needed. (Are all sheets of glass guaranteed to...

This assumes implicitly a reference surface as long as the plane. If the plane is longer than the reference, it would be necessary to do one end at a time. Would that procedure be ok?

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Could you elaborate on this. The planes I've checked are concave, though I didn't check the side to side profile. (I no longer have the one that was greatly convex.) So if I have a 12" long reference and a 25" long plane I can use the reference to lap the plane? I didn't follow the...

I have found it difficult (impossible?) to get shavings much below about 0.0015" in the past. The one time I tried to flatten a plane I spent a few hours and made it less flat. (However, it started out convex, I believe.) I guess I'll have to reinvestigate the methods. It does seem like...

I don't have a tail vise. The workpiece is secured in on the bench top with a bench dog at one end and the Veritas wonderdog at the other end. (The wonderdog is a clamp that fits into a dog hole.) To prevent the board from depressing under the weight of the plane, I have inserted a bunch of...

I've flattened several boards without the benefit of the methods described in the DVD and I definitely noticed the tendency of the board to become convex. (In my first effort, I started with inch thick lumber and by the time I declared it flat, several hours later, it was less than 1/2" in...

I haven't inspected surface finish very closely, but it looks and feels smooth. I don't see or feel the scallops that are presumably there. The only remaining difficulty I have is that after a series of stop shavings, the board is slightly concave (<0.002") as desired. But if I take a set...

The shavings I'm getting from this oak are kind of lacy, with maybe 30% of the shaving missing. The parts that are present curl up and because they are narrow, it's hard to get them into the calipers and be completely sure that I have the shaving flat and I'm not gettings a second layer of...

I had a chance to test my cambered blade last night. When I was getting a 1-2 thou shaving the cut was under 1/2 inch wide. When I increased to a 3-4 thou shaving the cut was about 1 inch wide. (Note, however, that my shaving measurements seem rather uncertain. I'm planing oak that is making...

Thanks for taking the time to post here. I was following the method from your book---I haven't seen the DVD (but I notice that it covers in its 75 minutes a lot more than just cambering a blade). I can think of two things that would have made me slow. One is that I spent at least half the...

I used a card rather than getting out my feeler gauges because they're rusting enough without being around all that water. I did, nevertheless, find it somewhat tricky to tell what was going on because if I placed my edge on a (hopefully) flat surface and held it up to the light I would see...

I'll admit that I rather like measuring stuff. But I think a lot of the drive to measure things like this comes from trying to learn from books and DVDs. In the DVD, Charlesworth talks about measuring plane shavings with calipers, but at one point later, he just handles the shavings and says...

It looks like the lower end of your recommended camber range was missing from your post. A centimetre camber sounds like the shape suggested for scrub planes. If I wanted to use my bevel up jack plane for final flattening and edge jointing I expect I'd want the camber to be about 3.5 times the...

I'm also interested in cambering my blade enough to use the techniques described in Charlesworth's book and DVD for face and edge preparation. A few messages up someone said that for this a "very light" camber would suffice. However, in the book, Charlesworth recommends that the edge of the...