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Hi, If doing edge banding without specialised machinery, what options do I have? I have used iron on edging in the past, which adhered well. But it was so thin, I wouldn't have been able to put a radius on it. Can you get different thicknesses of iron on edge banding? Or can I apply thicker...

Aready anticipating the answer about doing those X's in MDF. So, if I'm going to do the X's in solid timber, what's the best practice... should I joint two boards of 175mm each or three boards of 116mm to make the 350mm that it needs to be?

:( Sounds like I'm heading back to the original plan then - which was a combo of solid timber and veneered mdf. Oak might be OK in terms of cost.... But - now I'm worried about the two wine cubes with the big X separating them into four chambers. My plan for those was to simply cut a slot into...

Actually only about 1m high. Each opening for a bottle is about 80mm * 90mm. Currently open at both sides to reduce visual 'weight' and save on materials. The wider section with shelves has some vertical pieces at the back to provide some shearing stiffness and the wider section with the...

Never used brads before. Is it the kind of thing that you'd have to be looking for to actually notice, or would they be more visible/conspicuous than that? I must admit, the more I look at that picture I posted in post #3, the more I like the idea of completely hidden fixings. There's 132 of...

I'm sorry - I don't understand. The rails must be fixed towards their front end as well as the back end. So with two screws to turn in, you couldn't have a thread protruding from the rail and then spin the whole rail to screw it down into the thread insert. And besides, that action of spinning...

What, like some sort of sliding dovetail?

The rack in the first post is part of a slightly bigger construction, so the other elements will provide some support. See picture below. Does that provide some reassurance, or would you still be concerned @ajs ? It was originally going to be in a veneered mdf with the rails in matching solid...

Thanks for the suggestion. Though, I don't know if I'd like the look of rebating because the ply lines in the verticals will then be broken by the rebates. With solid material, I wouldn't have an issue with it. I'll have to give it a go with some off cuts first to see what it looks like.

Thanks. Any guesses as to how these rails are fixed? No visible fixings or even plugs. And from other photos of the same construction, they don't appear to be fixed from the other side (i.e. through the side support and then into the rail). Dowels and glue? There doesn't appear to be vast...

Hi all, I'm planning on building a wine rack out of birch ply. Aesthetically, I'd like the rails on which the wine bottles sit to be orientated so that the ply is horizontal. But that would mean fixing the ply rails edge-on to the side supports. The rails will be 18mm ply with a width of 20mm...

Yes - I think this is where I am headed now. The quality of the table saw cut still makes this desirable. Is it feasible to use my Sealy table saw to trim to final size on pieces that are quite large (e.g. that hypothetical 2000x700 wardrobe side) if I have appropriate supports around the...

It is indeed helpful. Portability as such isn't the issue - I'm not trade and so don't travel to sites, I just do this at home for me. Space and storage is one of my limitations. But I do occasionally do reasonably sized projects involving something like 10 sheets and hundreds of cuts. So it...

Poopers. Here's a scrap of ply I tested on yesterday: It's not that I'm bothered about the track moving. It's the hassle of moving the track halfway through the cut. My track is only 1.5m and a longer track was more expensive than the table saw!

Please could you give me an example of a model that is suited for sheet material. Are we talking reasonably compact at around £800: Axminster Workshop AW254TS 254mm Table Saw - 230V Or huge and £2.5k: Axminster Professional AP254LTS Table Saw - 230V

yes - it was cheap and cheerful. But I don't have a workshop, so need something that i can put up and then take down and store at the end of a project. Hence needing a compact thing.

Sealy TS10CZ. Its top is 470mm x 620mm (looks like cast alloy). Plus 250mm pressed steel extension tables to both sides and back. The fence can't (i.e. isn't designed to) be attached to the extension tables. (Edit: typo)

Calling all table saw fans - I need some teaching, please. I got a 2nd hand table saw to: * make cutting sheet material quicker * get super clean cuts that don't need further finishing * cut to final dimensions on first pass * achieve dead-square (or precisely angled) components such as cabinet...

Thanks all - I'll stick with the sand paper then, but ditch the cork block. That's kept 20 quid in my pocket!

I tend to find that the super sharp corner along the edge can give the piece a bit of an aggressive/hard look and feel - but maybe that's a subjective thing. But on a more practical note, if it's going to be painted, I find a slight round can be a bit more tolerant to use before the paint chips...