Two Cherries, Burnisher?

[MIGNAL]

After many years of using the back of a gouge I finally bought a dedicated scraper burnisher - the Kirschen from Axminster. It doesn't come polished so I spent some 15 minutes achieving a nice polished surface. Only trouble is that my card scrapers mark it, to the point of creating a score mark that can just about be felt with a fingernail. I don't think my scrapers are particularly hard, in fact one of them was made from an old saw.
Did they forgot to harden it? It just seems no better than the back of a gouge, in fact I think it's worse.
The only other thought is that I've removed an outer coating - some type of case hardening? Don't know, I'm guessing.

 

[Philly]

I've the same burnisher - never had any problems with it marking. Sounds like it isn't correctly hardened - it should be much harder than the scraper.
Cheers
Philly

 

[Digit]

No problem here either. Have a chat with AX, see what they have to say.

Roy.

 

[studders]

Bought the very same, from the same place and, I have the same problem as you. It does the job but doesn't seem as hard as it should be?

 

[Ironballs]

My Clifton has not a single scratch on it, very hard

 

[katellwood]

I use an old knife steel and it works brilliantly,

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have one to, no problems here, did it polish easly mine took lota of work, I ended up doing it in the drill press.

Pete

 

[superunknown]

I have the same one too, I have never had a problem with although I did lend it to an apprentice a few years back and it came back from him covered in score marks. :x

 

[yetloh]

I have never had nor needed a purpose made burnisher. On my first furniture making course at West Dean Bernard Allen (fabulous tutor) taught me his technique using a tungsten carbide blade of the sort used in a number of woodworking machines (about 50mm x 10mm). A knackered one will do because you don't use the cutting edges.

Place the prepared scraper flat on the bench with the prepared face up but overhanging a few mm. Draw the obtuse angled edge between the bevel and upper face of the t/c blade obliquely in a sheering action along the edge of the scraper, with the t/c blade a few degrees off parallel with the face of the scraper. This draws up the steel on the edge of the scraper.

Now put the scraper in the vice with face side towards you. Using a simillar action to that described above draw the same edge of the T/C blade along the top edge of the scraper, angled a few degrees off right angles to the scraper. The exact angle will dewpend on the angle of hook you want.

You should need no more than two strokes of the t/c blade in each part of the process. One is sometimes enough depending on the amount of pressure applied. The whole process takes no more than one minute and produces a small but highly effective hook. Try it then ask for your money back on the burnisher.

If you ca't lay your hands on one of these t/c cutters. bahco make something similar for their hand scrapers - available from Axminster.

Jim

 

[Paul Chapman]

My Clifton has not a single scratch on it, very hard

I also have the Clifton burnisher. It's had quite a lot of use and has no scratches on it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[tommy]

I've got one too and it's covered in scratches. I might take it back given that axminster lists one of it features as "The toughest scraper blades will not mark this tool"!

 

[MIGNAL]

Yes, I read that too.
Now I'm beginning to think that the Burnisher is hardened but perhaps not as hard as it should or could be. I tried a needle file on it, it cuts but with some reluctance - that's pretty much the same result I get when I try it on the back of my gouge.
I've tried all my scraper blades - that's about 6 of them. Most are no name commercial scrapers, a couple made from saw steel. Contrary to the Axminster (or perhaps Kirschen) claim every single scraper leaves a quite visible mark.

 

[newt]

From what you have all said the tool is not hard enough, Ax are usually very good at sorting this sort of thing out.