Tool cleaning and restoration discussion thread

[OldSchoolTools]

Hi Andy,

I have used over the last 3 years a product called DEOX rust remover, available in a powder solution that you dilute in look warm water and leave for about an hour removes a lot of rust just a little clean with a wire wool, this does not leave any abrasive marks on the steel,
it is also available as a gel that I am currently trying out as I think there would be less wastage first thoughts it leaves a wax that needs to be really rubbed to be removed perhaps I am using it wrong?
available online from a company called Bilt hamper who have a really good service.
I would recommend the powder form and can honestly say it works,

cheers Gary

 

[marcros]

i have also used that stuff as a powder. the warmer the water, the quicker it acts- i have used it with hot water at about 70 degrees and it was pretty quick. With "warm" water, i found it needed several hours, but there are many different variables involved!

 

[bugbear]

I would recommend the powder form and can honestly say it works,

A quick google reveals impressed users.

So; the key UKWORKSHOP question. How does it compare to Jimi's beloved and much-plugged CorroDip?

One assumes they're both essentially just acids.

BugBear

 

[marcros]

i think that they are comparable. I was going for the corrodip, but the postage on it was very very expensive, whereas the deox-c was reasonable. I dont use enough to worry too much about "per litre of made up mixture" rates, so couldnt guarantee that it was a true comparison of cost.

 

[AndyT]

I would recommend the powder form and can honestly say it works,

A quick google reveals impressed users.

So; the key UKWORKSHOP question. How does it compare to Jimi's beloved and much-plugged CorroDip?

One assumes they're both essentially just acids.

BugBear

That's what I thought at first, but having found my way past "De-tox hampers" to http://www.bilthamber.com they seem rather reticent to say what it is - they don't even have COSHH sheets to give any clues as to the constituents. Their claims - that it's a biodegradeable crystalline powder which will remove rust but sting broken skin - could also apply to the citric acid powder I have used before.

I did once read a very technical article that said the difference with proper de-rusting products was that as well as acid to remove the rust there should be other chemicals for "chelation" which somehow binds the surface in a way that prevents further rusting. Apparently molasses does this, hence the accounts online with bins full of agricultural grade molasses making old junk into treasure.

Gary, Mark, does it smell like cheap lemonade?

 

[marcros]

i cant remember, if i find something rusty in the next day or two, I will de-rust it and have a smell!

 

[OldSchoolTools]

Only being an R Whites Lemonade Drinker I couldn't say
joking a part It probably does and your correct about the cosh, although I do get some literature through woith orders I will check next time, yes it can sting skin a little but nothing that causes myself any harm.

just to note Im note promoting the product in any way at all, just my own opinion, Im sure there are many product out there, all good

Gary

 

[bugbear]

That's what I thought at first, but having found my way past "De-tox hampers" to http://www.bilthamber.com they seem rather reticent to say what it is - they don't even have COSHH sheets to give any clues as to the constituents. Their claims - that it's a biodegradeable crystalline powder which will remove rust but sting broken skin - could also apply to the citric acid powder I have used before.

Here's partial data on CorroDip

http://www.jckdistributors.com.au/wp-co ... DS-TDS.pdf

Blend of partially neutralised organic acids - High >60%
Water - Medium 10 to 30%

MSDS for DEOX

http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/msds/msds_deoxc.pdf

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

Thanks BB. That confirms that Deox is an organic acid - the MSDS says "PH: 3.5 — 4.0 (1% SOLUTION)"

It does still sound like good stuff though and I'm tempted to try some - I just don't have any rusty tools right now.

 

[Plumberpete]

I just bought some Andy, I'll let you know the results as soon as I've had a go.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I'm a big exponent of electrolytic rust removal with which I've had great results every time I've used it. Is there any advantage of using an acid solution over electrolysis?

Regards Mick

 

[RogerP]

Hi
I'm a big exponent of electrolytic rust removal with which I've had great results every time I've used it. Is there any advantage of using an acid solution over electrolysis?
Regards Mick

Me too! Stuff bubbling away in the tub at the moment.

I don't see any other method would be better - even as good

 

[AndyT]

I've used citric acid and I've used electrolysis. I don't think there is much difference in the quality of the finished article. Either way, you will need to do some scrubbing over the clean surface with a stiff toothbrush or wire brush.

Electrolysis is good if:
- you already have a suitable low voltage DC power supply
- you have a big enough container to hold the rusty object away from the anode(s) without touching
- you can make an electrical connection to the item
- you can submerge the rusty item
- you don't mind a tomato soupy mess.

Citric or other acid is good if:
- you want to see what is going on
- your rusty object is fairly small, such as a plane iron or a drill bit
- you don't mind the slightly higher cost.

Some people say that if you leave things in acid too long it will attack the good steel, but I've never found that to be a problem, either because the hydrogen ions were all used up, or because I was too impatient to leave things too long.

Both methods produce hydrogen gas, so need good ventilation.

 

[Noggsy]

I finally gave up and bought some corro dip which should arrive this week. I look forward to de-rusting everything I can find

One thing I haven't managed to discover is whether if affects wood? Does anyone here know?

 

[Slinger]

Noggsy
Can you please keep us posted on the Corro Dip. I'm undecided between this & the electrolysis method.
Cheers.
Slinger

 

[Mr_P]

Corro dip is a genuine Antipodean miracle but I would never leave wood soaking in liquid but Jimi43 did give me a tip which I haven't tried yet:-

Just a little tip I found helped with CorroDip.

The downside is that the item has to be immersed and this is not desirable if you can't remove the infill.

If you temporarily smear Vaseline on the wood thickly and just a bit over the transition to the metal the wood will be perfectly protected from any liquid until the metal is restored at which point you can remove the Vaseline with a cloth.

three-rusty-infills-chariot-smoother-shoulder-wip-t79661.html

 

[Noggsy]

Slinger, I certainly will...with pictures now be got my trusty iPhone back.

MrP - thanks for that. I'll be removing the blades from the woodies, but I'll bear it in mind for any chisels in the future.

 

[woodfarmer]

I finally gave up and bought some corro dip which should arrive this week. I look forward to de-rusting everything I can find

One thing I haven't managed to discover is whether if affects wood? Does anyone here know?

It turns oak black

 

[bridger]

I have used with good results both electrolysis and distilled white vinegar.