Small box from carbide tools

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sploo

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I've just picked up Glenn Teagle's Standard Type 3 chisel set (http://www.ukwoodcraftandcarbidechisels ... elset.html). First impressions are good - they have a homemade vibe about them, but I really like the large handles, and given that I'd have to buy all the materials I doubt I could have made them much cheaper myself.

I keep trying to remember to remove my wedding ring before turning, so thought a small box to keep it safe would be a good first test. Given the likelihood of losing it (the box) in the garage, a bright colour seemed appropriate, and the wife loves purple.

I've got some cheap white pine I've been using for learning pieces, and had a spindle that was already turned down to ~60mm diameter. I used a forstner for the initial holes inside the box, and my parting tool to split the halves, but mostly it was done using the square and round carbide tools.

Two views:

20161015_204032.jpg


20161015_204041.jpg



Inside:

20161015_204100.jpg



Bottom:

20161015_204112.jpg


I was using Fiebing's leather dye - which is incredibly strong (even thinned with meths). In hindsight, I probably should have stained the outside of the spindle before initially parting. I did it after completing most of the box, and even after then trimming down the height of the boxes (to remove the bleeding) the dye was still visible in the end grain when the box is opened.

Taking the height of the halves down meant I was running out of thickness on the bottom, so couldn't take as much as I wanted from the base. The camera perspective distorts the size, but the top is about 2cm tall, with the bottom 3cm. It does at least come apart with a satisfying "pop".

Whilst the carbide tools remove a lot of material, they don't seem to be that effective directly against end grain pine - so an initial drilling of the inside helps. On the flip side, that does mean it's relatively "safe" to shape the insides with the round tool - especially rolled over as a shear cut.

Plenty of mistakes and things to do better next time, but that was my first turned box, first time using carbide tools, and first time using jam chucks. I'm pretty sure it was in a Mike Waldt video that I saw the tip of using slightly wet kitchen roll between parts when using a jam chuck - that worked wonders (vs nothing, or just dry paper).

I can see myself picking up Glenn's larger 15mm square and round chisels at some point.
 

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Looks just the job, (though I can't get my wedding ring off, unless my hands are freezing cold).

I like the colour, too.

Look good tools - thanks for the link.

Greg
 
gregmcateer":3p1x9iny said:
Looks just the job, (though I can't get my wedding ring off, unless my hands are freezing cold).

I like the colour, too.

Look good tools - thanks for the link.

Greg
Don't worry. Plenty of machines will rip it off for you. :D
 
Nice job on the box. Don't forget you can sharpen those flat carbide cutters on a diamond plate, they end up even sharper than new.
 
phil.p":18qj113d said:
Don't worry. Plenty of machines will rip it off for you. :D
*LOL*

I've only ever given myself a serious injury using the router table (tired, not paying attention, did something dumb), but I'll generally be well away from the spinny sharp bits (i.e. push sticks with the table saw).

The lathe is probably one that lulls you into a false sense of security - nothing sharp on the machine, you stick your clumsy digits into a revolving workpiece to sand/seal/wax it. All fine. Until something catches and takes a finger on holiday. Hence I felt that removing the ring is probably sensible.


woodpig":18qj113d said:
Nice job on the box. Don't forget you can sharpen those flat carbide cutters on a diamond plate, they end up even sharper than new.
Yep. Glenn mentioned that, but I sharpen carbide router bits on diamond plates already so I'd probably have given it a go even in the absence of advice!
 
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