scraper planes

[marcros]

i am looking for a plane to finish off a table top.

There seems to be a number- the stanley 12, 80, 85, and some other versions of these. What are the merits of each type, and which would be most suited to my task?

Thanks

 

[marcros]

forget the 85- just seen the prices!

 

[Paul Chapman]

For general work, I wouldn't recommend the #85 style scraper plane. That is designed more for scraping into rebates but lacks the ability to tilt the blade, so is not so versatile for more general work.

The best two scraper planes, in my view, are the #80 and #112 style but for something large like a table top, the longer sole of the #112 is better. Here's a comparison of the soles of the #80 and #112 style Veritas scraper planes



The Veritas #112 style scraper plane has, in my view, a significant advantage over the Stanley and Lie Nielsen equivalents in that you can bow the blade as you can with the #80 style scraper. You can just see the brass screw for doing this in this picture





It also has the option of a thick blade which doesn't bow, but I find the thinner blade works better.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

i am looking for a plane to finish off a table top.

There seems to be a number- the stanley 12, 80, 85, and some other versions of these. What are the merits of each type, and which would be most suited to my task?

Thanks

Why a scraper plane?

They are indicated for heavily interlocked grain, and can only be used on hardwood. A handplane will give a better finish. So would a cabinet/card scraper.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[marcros]

inexperience I guess- i thought that the scraper plane was a means of holding a card scraper to do much the same job. Is that not the case?

 

[Trafalgar]

inexperience I guess- i thought that the scraper plane was a means of holding a card scraper to do much the same job. Is that not the case?

It'll do the same job. For most of us, it has become frighteningly obvious over the years that one cannot always just plane and plane and plane until one gets the exact surface one would like, well, off the plane. There's the matter of ending up with a tabletop somewhere in the vicinity of the finished thickness we had planned for the project. And no, the answer is not to start with 5/4 stock for a tabletop with a planned thickness of three quarters -- 'cause you just like planing and fiddling with tools.

By all means scrape and sand if necessary. There are few, if any, professional woodworkers in the world who don't.

The dichotomy being presented is ridiculous - as if you had a scraper plane you wouldn't also have a few card scrapers lying about. Use what works. Let your own eyes be the judge. Flat is good. Flat is expected. Flat registered to a table's aprons is crucial.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

inexperience I guess- i thought that the scraper plane was a means of holding a card scraper to do much the same job. Is that not the case?

There is nothing wrong with using a scraper - if it is called for. However it may be a lot easier to use a handplane. The choice of handplane is also a factor here ....

What wood is the tabletop made of? Is this a hard- or soft wood? Is there much in the way of interlocked or reversing grain (I would include boards that have been joined without attention to grain direction). And lastly, are you wanting to flatten the top or smooth it, or both?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[marcros]

european oak, and it is not badly interlocked. I havent jointed it, so can pay attention to grain direction when I do.

The aim is to smooth it.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Marcos

My bench top is European Oak

A Stanley #4 or #4 1/2 would do a good job for the smoothiing. Slight camber to the blade and off you go. However, you will need to flatten it first once glued up. I would use a #7 jointer for this task.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[tobytools]

+1 Derek
Scraper plane isn't needed in the application you want.

IMHO they are just a luxurious toy. No disrespect if you use one and swear by it but they arnt needed really. (This applies to woods I've used, not oz woods)

Saying that I own 2types so I can't say they aren't nice additions to the tool kit.

TT

 

[AndyT]

A Record or Stanley no 80 has the distinct advantage that you can find a second hand one for £15 to £25, whereas the more plane-shaped models are much dearer.

I used one on a little oak side table I made, where it was easy to use and quite useful. If the oak you are using is it all 'rustic' with knots or swirling grain, a scraper can be less stressful than accidentally planing the wrong way and getting tear out.

 

[Paul Chapman]

+1 Derek
Scraper plane isn't needed in the application you want.

IMHO they are just a luxurious toy.

Sorry, I don't agree. They may not be essential in that there are alternative ways of dealing with difficult grain and tear out, but when making something like a table top where boards have to be jointed together, it's sometimes more important to arrange the boards for the best appearance rather than worrying about the direction of the grain. In those cases, a scraper plane is one of the most stress-free ways of obtaining a perfect finish. I often use one and find they are a real joy to use.

I used one to clean up this oak table top





Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[James-1986]

I wouldn't bother with one on oak, if you get a really gnarly patch then just use a cabinet scraper. They are invaluable for stuff like Iroko, as a cabinet scraper is not a nice tool to use over a large area.

I've got an old Stanley, was £3 from a car boot, not a big investment!

 

[rxh]

I find my scraper plane very useful for dealing with difficult grain. For example, I have just been doing a little job with partridge wood that defeated my bench planes. However, the scraper plane dealt with it very well. I have also found it very good with iroko and padauk.

 

[tobytools]

+1 Derek
Scraper plane isn't needed in the application you want.

IMHO they are just a luxurious toy.

Sorry, I don't agree. They may not be essential in that there are alternative ways of dealing with difficult grain and tear.

Says it all really. So if someone new to wood work wanted to plane a table top you would suggest buying a scraper plane?

A while ago someone mentioned that wood selection is more important, "top of the list"

At the end of the day if the scraper plane works for you then please don't let me offend you. I'm just saying that as you say there are other ways to tackle this problem.

Nice table btw
TT

 

[James-1986]

[/quote]

Sorry, I don't agree. They may not be essential in that there are alternative ways of dealing with difficult grain and tear.

Says it all really. T[/quote]

Like what? The scraper solved this problem a long time before the advent of all the plane fettling madness, having the scraper in a plane makes it a pleasure to use. I can't think of anything easier apart from sticking it under a wide belt sander, shame you can't get one for a tenner.

 

[tobytools]

maby i think and feel this way because im not a professional that has to meet dead lines, i just do what i like and enjoy it. after all that is what its about.
if certain people love scraper planes then thats fine. maybe when i do bigger projects i may change my view.
I've used a scraper plane and didn't like it or its screech

TT

 

[bugbear]

I've used a scraper plane and didn't like it or its screech

They do take a certain "touch" in the tuning.

BugBear

 

[tobytools]

I've used a scraper plane and didn't like it or its screech

They do take a certain "touch" in the tuning.

BugBear

I agree, I haven't bothered tuning it just put it away for another time. Mines a stanley 112 with original no22 toothing iron, when I have the time I'll get it up and running, I'll also give it an iron upgrade to increase performance.

TT

 

[Racers]

Sounds like a nice plane TT you should be able to get a flat blade for it Lie Nelsen, Ron Hock etc

I have to make do with this.



:lol:

Pete