A little box for comments, critique or suggestions :-)

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Castanea

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Last night's effort - a bit of ash turned into some kind of oriental-hat style box! There's a bit of thickness on the bottom which makes it a little heavy so the question is - should the bead stay or go and if it goes should I take five or six mill off the bottom to make the box lighter in the hand?

Answers on a postcard please :D The jamb chuck is still on the lathe so I may make a decision fairly soon!

And is it just me or do others suffer from the issue of making the top and bottom fit beautifully only to find that pushing the bottom onto the jamb chuck can subtly stretch or otherwise widen the bottom and make it a much tighter fit than it was? I may need to give it a day and then shave a tiny fraction off!

72mm wide at the widest point x 59mm total height

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That's rather nice.
Despite the bead being well executed, I'd remove it to make the line of the shape cleaner (less is more), it's curve doesn't sit well with the concavity of the rest of the curves.
I wouldn't take anything off the base and spoil it's proportions. Sometimes unexpected weight or balance, both + and -, can add to the intrigue of a piece.
 
Fair point - and, looking at it again, the bead really doesn't to anything for the grain except interupt it. I agree that leaving it the height as it is but whipping off the bead might be the answer. That might be a job for this evening (along with tweaking the fit of the lid)
Many thanks for the advice :D
 
I'd say Yes to removing the bead, does not belong and spoils the clean lines, to me it just shouts 'I did it because I could'.

I would not shorten it at all, I think the width-height proportions are OK as turned.

Full marks on the quality of the bead though.
 
Rhossydd":17mqzys7 said:
That's rather nice.
Despite the bead being well executed, I'd remove it to make the line of the shape cleaner (less is more), it's curve doesn't sit well with the concavity of the rest of the curves.
I wouldn't take anything off the base and spoil it's proportions. Sometimes unexpected weight or balance, both + and -, can add to the intrigue of a piece.

What he said!

Plus gotta say - Superb grain match - you must have a micro-micro parting tool!

Love it
 
A good looking box the finial matches with the overall shape which is good you have also got a good grain match so overall it ticks all of the boxes, but I too agree about the bead it just does not look good on the box
 
Nice looking piece if a little squat for my liking. I would not have thought of removing the bead but they may be right. Let's see some more pictures if you take it off.

What's the finish?
 
Rhossydd":2jl41fzd said:
That's rather nice.
Despite the bead being well executed, I'd remove it to make the line of the shape cleaner (less is more), it's curve doesn't sit well with the concavity of the rest of the curves.
I wouldn't take anything off the base and spoil it's proportions. Sometimes unexpected weight or balance, both + and -, can add to the intrigue of a piece.

+1 Couldn't have put it better myself. You've done it because you "could" and I entirely understand the desire to experiment like that. It was beautifully executed too so its a real shame that as Ross says it just doesn't belong in the context of the design.

Well done on the piece though, I really like it and would only suggest one tiny mod (which is just personal preference) which is to thin the internal walls slightly. Just look slightly too thick to my eye. But its not a biggy. lovely grain and very well matched. Like the finial too.
 
Personally, I just love the grain, shape and finish and definitely The oriental look, I think It's very well done and distinctive, Leave the top!

I'm not a regular turner,Although I was turning at 11 years old in my Dads workshop, ashtrays, egg cups, platters and the dreaded candlesticks!
And apart from the stem for a small round table, I've not turned for a long time.
On entering a turning competition here, I would be delighted if I came last so it maybe wise not to listen to me!
Regards Rodders
 
Many thanks folks.

The bead wasn't so much because I could as because I just wondered if it would work better with than without and knew I couldn't change my mind once it was off :)
Having left it on I still wasn't sure so the unanimous verdict on here helped make up my mind and was clearly the right answer. It does look better without. The little finial was going to be a bit longer but there were a couple of cracks which I had to work past leaving a slightly dumpy finial which might suit the box better than the longer one I'd planned!

Wall thickness - to be honest it's not bad (trust me - I've made some right chunky-walled boxes!) but it would be nicer a little bit thinner. Sometimes I'm just a bit over cautious. I'm getting better - that bead looked pretty dreadful and I was nervous of touching it up when the piece was looking good but I took the plunge, tidied both sides, got away with it and learned from it (and will be less reluctant to go the extra half a mill next time!). Equally I will try slimming down the walls a bit next time - mind you with wood that is prone to splitting easily I do worry when it comes to pushing it onto the jamb chuck - I have had a disheartening "click" once or twice as thin walls have cracked on the jamb chuck :-( Having said that the total wall thickness just below the tenon is about 7mm so I could easily loose a mill and still have enough strength unless there's a pre-existing weakness.

As for the grain matching. Somehow it often seems to work out that when a piece is narrowing downwards the grain appears more forgiving. I was fairly careful but probably lost four mill in the parting off and have a five mill tenon so it's probably more luck than judgement as there's a 9 or 10 mill break in the grain pattern. If it was a straight sided box I think you'd really notice it. On this tapering box it seems to work.
I put the tinniest v cut across the joint because the open grain was looking messy and the V just helped to tidy up the edge. I find it very hard to get those in exactly the right spot (and there's not much room for error) On this occasion I seem to have got it right which is heartening - I'm either getting better or luckier!

While it was reversed to take the bead off I took a whisker off the tenon so the lid pops on and off nicely now - no effort but you can feel the air resistance so I'm happy with that.

The finish is just a coat of wood wax 22. It would probably have benefited from a coat of sanding sealer first but I was lazy. I might try another the same and take a bit more time over the finishing.

Fingers crossed that it doesn't move now it's in the house.

Thanks again for all the comments - I'm very happy with my box which has ended up all the better for having its beadectomy.

All the best

Ian

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Castanea":2pplpnwa said:
....The finish is just a coat of wood wax 22. It would probably have benefited from a coat of sanding sealer first but I was lazy. I might try another the same and take a bit more time over the finishing.
...
Yes best to seal the wood first before waxing, not all naked wood specimens will take soft wax evenly and you may get blotchy patterning dependant upon how the soft wax solvents have penetrated.

Well done on the remounting and re-blending the curve, think your shorter finial is fine and defines it as a User, not just an arty piece a handler might have to be careful with.
 
Lots of detail and precision fit there. well done, glad you kept the top, the lid definitely needs a "handle". As for weight, well I think a bit of weight adds to the tactile pleasure of handling wooden things.
 
I am really really sorry about this but someone has to do it.

How many comments, critique or suggestions are you going to be able to fit in it ?


Nice box though :)
 
Oooops - hadn't really thought of that - I'll go and make a bigger one so I can fit 'em all in :D
 

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