Steel Sole, Norris # 10 - a like.

[Richard T]

I have made my first plane with an o1 sole. Much tougher to work but a lot more satisfying.



I had in mind Bill's copies of the Norris # 10, but as I have never seen one and don't know the spec s, I guessed at 25 degree bed and settled on using the steel that I had, leaving it at 7 - 3/8" long. The upper body is 6" long.

So I can't say it's a 'copy' more of an unsure tribute.

I went back to Walnut for this one. I think it will be very dark when oiled.



I put an o1 sneck on it too riveted with bits of a 4mm nail.



I spent a lot of time on the front infill. I'm very conscious that my wood work needs more practice.



Still things to do - riveting through, finishing the wedge, lapping. But it cuts great, though the edge is very new and needs taking back a bit. It still has the last traces of roughness after I experimented with a lower tempering heat - crumbled magnificently on my diamond plate when I got anywhere near an edge, so I re - tempered it a higher temperature.

 

[Mr_P]

Outstanding =D> =D> =D>

http://www.norrisplanes.com/norris-numb ... tre-plane/

We are not worthy.

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Carl, I had been looking at that page but there are no dimensions or angles mentioned. Also I have been watching David Barron's youtube post about all his Carters including his Norris copy.

Next time I see him I could measure his hands (surreptitious like) or I s'pose it might be easier to ask Bill.

 

[Mr_P]

Karl Holtey says traditionally 25 degrees

http://www.holteyplanes.com/infill-planes-No10.html

The David Barron / Bill Carter planes video you mentioned

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQf4TpWvrL0

Maybe you should buy that cheap no.11 on ebay at the moment and compare :shock:

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Another material that may be worth a try for plane soles is En8 (080M40), 0.4% carbon steel. It's available as cold drawn bright bar in rectangular sections, according to Macready's Orange Book. For hardness, it's a bit nearer annealed O1 toolsteel than it is to cold drawn mild steel mild steel (which is usually 0.2% carbon steel), and ease of working is about half way between the two. Certainly plenty good enough for a decent plane sole.

 

[Richard T]

Thanks CC - that's very interesting. Googling it, I found a place quite close that stocks that and more tool steels of varying toughness as well as the exotic blade stock so if ever I get curious about that I can have a play.

At the moment I am quite in awe of o1; although it is tough to work, it demands accuracy. When approached with a saw and the intention of cutting a straight line, it honours the intention by allowing a straight line. So as long as my hands/wrists allow, I'll stick with it.

Might be a good compromise for uppers/sides .... choices, choices ...

 

[Bluekingfisher]

A very nice piece of work. I am always amazed at what some guys on the forum can come up with.

An heirloom piece for sure.

well done.

David

 

[Racers]

The standard is getting higher all the time!

How difficult where the dovetails to peen?

Pete

 

[MickCheese]

That looks amazing, well done.

A truly professional job.

Mick

 

[Richard T]

Thanks folks

Pete - the dove tails were fine to pein. Apart from the fact that the most movement was required from the pins. the tails still needed to be closed up around them and it responded very well. slower to move than mild steel but just as malleable in its own, tougher way.

 

[Racers]

Good to know, thanks.

Pete

 

[MIGNAL]

Thanks Carl, I had been looking at that page but there are no dimensions or angles mentioned. Also I have been watching David Barron's youtube post about all his Carters including his Norris copy.

Next time I see him I could measure his hands (surreptitious like) or I s'pose it might be easier to ask Bill.

Just fire off some emails to Bill, David, whoever and ask for dimensions/angles etc. Not many of these guys bite and I suspect that some of them are very interested in what you are doing. Never be afraid of asking a question or two. The very worst that can happen is that you will get a refusal. No big deal.
Nice plane BTW. This kind of work obviously requires a lot of dedication.

 

[caroleb]

Lovely work Richard.

Can I ask what the small Moore and Wright (?) compass/scribe tool is called on the RHS in the first few pics. It has a cranked arm kinda - reason I ask is I came across one in a box I bought. Mine is a M+W (so assumed, maybe incorrectly that yours is too) and has that nib at the end of one arm too. Not being even remotely engineering minded (in spite of friends efforts) I am begging your indulgence!

And in the meantime I will continue to fantasise about making a mitre plane myself. It is coming.......although it may well be camera shy.....

Caz

 

[Richard T]

Hi Caz

It's a Dog Leg Scribe - at least that's what they are called round here, maybe that's just a Brumigumism. Maybe there is a more technical Sheffield term; it is Moore and Wright.

As long as you are happy that you can get your edges straight, square and parallel, you can reference your depth lines with it from the edges so that they all end up the same without having to measure and mark each one where differences are bound to happen. This is particularly useful with a two - piece mitre sole as you can scribe both halves after you have cut each to length and squared the ends up - a good chance you would have smudged and faded lines of blue if you had scribed it before hand.

I'll try to get a relevant picture or two of it in use later.

 

[AndyT]

According to the 1935 Moore and Wright catalogue, it's an adjustable "New Firm Joint Jenny" which sounds like the sort of thing we all need in the workshop!

(Stunning work btw Richard - and you do seem to be turning them out at a pace!)

 

[Richard T]

That's the feller Andy.

Here's what I am doing with the next one. Taking the width of the sole plus 1/16" for peining



and scribing that depth on to the side.



It's a lot easier that measuring and scribing with a rule. I've already done that with cutting them out.

Why measure twice with the all new, firm jointed, dog legged, scribing jenny.

It's also very handy for finding the centre of small bits ... bridges for eg.

 

[richarnold]

Hi Richard.
I just looked up the Norris catalogue to find out what a number 10 was. I now realize that it refers to the plain style of Mitre plane, and came in a wide range of sizes. This was one of the first Bill ever made. there was a batch of 6 in various materials, but this was the first ever gunmetal one he made with dovetail construction. As to asking him for the measurements, he probably wont remember. he's borrowed this one back on at least two occasions to remind himself!!!. This one is bedded at 25 degrees. with a body length of about 3 1/2 inches with the sole being 4 1/4 inches by 1 3/8. The sides are 1 1/8 inches high. I know that this was copied from the smallest Norris Mitre plane ever found, and it must have been a special order as this size did not appear in the catalogue.
If you can get to the open day you can have a good look at it and take detailed measurements, and Bill will be there anyway.
Hope this helps, cheers, Richard

 

[Richard T]

Many thanks for the picture and all that info Richard. It's good to hear that the # 10 is the style rather than the size. Mine is getting on for twice the size of that one Bill made, nice to know it is a copy of the smallest. We will be at your do in June so I'll have a good scrute.

I drilled the holes for the rivets yesterday.



I wanted invisible iron rivets so for lack of any mild steel rod less than 6mm, I used the same 4mm nails that I riveted the sneck on with. Fortunately the ridges toward the head ends stopped just short of the lengths of my rivets after filing off the points at the other ends.





Working on it one side then the other to build up equal heads on either sides.





and filing/flap - wheeling smooth





I have been at it with emery cloth since and today is oil bath time.

 

[Richard T]

Out of the oil bath.





Some stray file marks to deal with still.

I think I am going to order some tool steel for the uppers and go the whole hog.

 

[AndyT]

Richard

Can you explain about the oil bath? Is it linseed oil to soak into the wooden parts ?

Thanks.