Startrite 352

[beech1948]

Oh!. ALT Saws and I discussed the provision by them of a bearing based set up. They could do it and came back with a quote and a list of parts ( God only knows where that is now). I did not go with them at that time because they seemed to vanish in front of my eyes and became somewhat unresponsive.

You may get different mileage.
Alan

 

[Harbo]

Thanks Alan - that wooden jig looks like a good idea - I will give it go next time I change a blade.

Rod

 

[Benchwayze]

FWIW, I fitted some "Coolblox" to the Kity that preceded my Startrite, and they were certainly better than the Kity originals, but seemed to me to wear out very fast.

Ah well... When I get around to turning up my old bowling woods into a mallet or two, I'll keep some of the Lignum scraps to one side!

Cheers Dick

John

 

[Racers]

Hi, Chaps

Found this place http://www.bearingoptions.co.uk/bearing ... -248-p.asp these look a better option as the bolt is M8 and you need at least 11mm spacing from the middle of the bolt to the blade.
99p each and 99p postage so I have ordered 4 to test, less than a fiver in total!

Updated link

http://www.bearingoptions.co.uk/628-2rs ... 2144-p.asp

Pete

 

[Harbo]

That's very reasonable - let us know how you get on with them?


Rod

 

[Racers]

Hi, Rod

Got an Email saying they have posted them, first class post so looks like some weekend fun!

Pete

 

[Harbo]

Seems like we will have a different sort of fun this weekend - two Granddaughters coming to stay for the half term week - no workshop for me!

They're lovely really.

Rod

 

[Racers]

Hi, Chaps

Well I fitted then today took about 1/2 an hour to do top and bottom guides.

Parts used, I needed to cut a flat on the big washers as they are bigger than the bearings.
1 by pete maddex, on Flickr

3 by pete maddex, on Flickr


Fitted

2 by pete maddex, on Flickr

How do they work I here you say, very well, got them adjusted and it cuts better than before, did some tight curves and straight lines. I need to do some deep cutting and other stuff to be sure, but for a fiver it is looking good.



Pete

 

[fluffflinger]

Thanks for the work you've done there Pete. Bearings plus some washers, total cost £6.30 fitting time 25mins. Job done.

The blocks on the 352 I'm refurbing needed milling and I was/still am going down the Lignum Vitae solution but this has given me a quick, cost effective and hopefully successful solution, just waiting for my new blades and I'll report back.

Two further questions on this topic;

Any value in replacing thrust rods with a bearing set up of some kind, tight for space and would need a bit of fabrication, what do you all think?

Question to those that know, I presume you use end grain as the bearing surface when using Lignum Vitae?

Regards

Richard

 

[dickm]

Any value in replacing thrust rods with a bearing set up of some kind, tight for space and would need a bit of fabrication, what do you all think?

Question to those that know, I presume you use end grain as the bearing surface when using Lignum Vitae?

Interesting idea to replace the thrust rod, which is a bit of a problem on my saw; would be quite tricky in the space available, I'm guessing.
I used end-grain lignum on my previous Kity, but the blocks on that were square cross section. Not sure whether the longer bearing surface on the 352 would be better side grain. Try both and see what happens?

Your comment about the original blocks needing milling - wouldn't it be possible just to grind them on a flat wheel (or even on a diamond stone?). Or would that impregnate the bearing surface with grit, which would NOT be a good idea.

 

[fluffflinger]

Dick

Thanks for response I will try both ways with the lignum vitae.

I undertand what you say about the space for fitting a rear bearing but as I have the old tipless thrust rods as a starting point we will see where we go with that one. There is plenty of room above the top thrust rod but below the table it's very tight indeed, the issue I feel would be getting a wide enough bearing with a small outside diameter.

The original meehanite blocks are desperately chewed up and totally out of square. I think if I am to use them in the future I will have them milled flat and square as they certainly have plenty of meat on them.

Regards

Richard

 

[beech1948]

Richard,

Mehanite blocks can be lapped to be square. All you need is basically a Scary Sharp type set up and some patience. If the Mehanite blocks are really chewed up the you can buy spares from ALT Saws. Look in Google.

When I did my 352 blocks I made a small jig out of three pieces of pine laminated together. The middle one at an angle to hold the block square to the sandpaper. Was much better than holding a small piece of metal with my fingers. Worked a like a charm to.

Alan

 

[fluffflinger]

Alan

I have done some work on the blocks, flattened the backs then started working on the faces using 100 micron lapping film from Workshop Heaven. That's the stuff I use to do initial flattening on the backs of chisels etc. When I had lost all feeling in my fingers for the 3rd time I had a look and didn't seem to be getting very far. I'll re-visit with a coarser grit, before I take them to the machine shop.

Want to try the Lignum Vitae as an experiment. Having said that I'm really please, thus far, with the bearing set up.

I'm really only just getting to know the machine and I haven't worked out how to eliminate the play in some components so I can get it really fine tuned as yet but the bearing are really easy to set and adjust.

Kind regards

Richard

 

[beech1948]

Richard,
I have found my Mehanite blocks to be fine so I'm not really looking to change yet BUT maybe will give your approach a try to experiment. I've never used bearing type supports on a bandsaw. I bought my 352 in 1993, fixed it up, added a Kreg fence last year to replace my wooden one and have just gone from there. There is a learning curve but its not too steep. The 352 is a great machine for the small cost.

Have you any front on shots as well as the side on ones. I wanted to see how close the bearings were to the blade and to think about any adjustment issues.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Chaps

I have my bearings adjusted to about the thickness of a piece of paper (A4 80 gram) seems to be about right.

I think a rear bearing will have to be located above the side bearings as there is no space lower down, I will have a think about it and see what I can come up with.

Tha tips on the rods are just tungsten carbide, you could get one from a masonary drill and braze it on.

Pete

 

[Chris152]

Pete - do you still have the photo of the parts you needed to convert the guides (obliterated by photobucket above) - and if so, could you post it again? The weblink to the bearings themselves still works so I can get those, I think. We have a 351 in our shared workshop but the bearings are awful, so it's got to be worth trying. Tia, if you can.

 

[Racers]

Hi Chris

I have uploaded the relevant photos to one of my Flickr accounts and edited the post.

Pete

 

[Chris152]

Many thanks Pete, all clear, bearings ordered - it was a long shot, I know I'd struggle to find a photo that old! Really appreciate it, there was talk of getting a new saw but I reckon we can sort this one. £7.64 incl delivery.
Chris

 

[Racers]

No problem Chris, I had them in a folder called Startrie so it was easy.

Let us know how you get on.

Pete