Turning Time in 2009

[Paul.J]

Very nice looking bangles Chas,with two nice contrasting timbers
You seem to have the joints down to perfection.

 

[Bodrighy]

Haven't you run out of offcuts yet Chas? :lol:

You are going to have to use all this expertise and make something bigger with them. A big bowl or platter or something.

No comment needed re quality etc. A+ as always

Pete

 

[CHJ]

A bit of a fiddle in preparation pays dividends Paul, also I've found it pays to let the glue-ups settle for a while for moisture to equalise before turning.

Am going to move to a different adhesive though, probably Polymite, been using low creep PVA but still get movement if heat is generated in sanding etc.

 

[CHJ]

Haven't you run out of offcuts yet Chas? :lol:
..Pete

Get a new bag full ever week it seems Pete, ironically you need a decent length of wood to hold to produce accurate segments, which then leaves you with a well prepared offcut that's too good to throw away :lol: .

 

[johnny.t.]

You do make these segmented bangles very well Chas Segmenting is something I've not tried, I can only imagine the gaps if I did :lol:

JT

 

[CHJ]

..... Segmenting is something I've not tried, I can only imagine the gaps if I did :lol:

JT

Main problem Johnny is deciding a method of cutting to size (segment length) that you are able to repeat. I use a chop saw and disc sander.

Stock wood must be prepared square and true on all four sides, stock size is not ultra critical.

Most critical thing is to keep the cut surfaces flat and square to the ends.

Taper is also important of course, but as long as you do a dry run clamp-up first it's possible to do a minor adjustment on the odd piece to get a good circle.

The easiest sectioned pieces to do are like the vase and pencil pots, all alignment and joint fit is done on the lathe.

 

[Lightweeder]

Lovely, as always, Chas. Let us know how you get on with your new glue.

LW

 

[CHJ]

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________Handled another little project...____Click on images for larger view.
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_____________Walnut & Stained Beech

 

[wizer]

V.Nice Chas How are you finding them?

 

[CHJ]

Shiny and sharp Tom,

Haven't had time to try them out yet, steels delivered Sat, only got the handles done late this afternoon.

Hope to bore everyone with beads a plenty anytime soon.

 

[wizer]

Looking forward to it

 

[DaveL]

Chas,

I have looked at those and I think Richard has one for a repeat job he does, might put them on the Christmas list.

 

[CHJ]

Chas,
I have looked at those and I think Richard has one for a repeat job he does, might put them on the Christmas list.

A bit of a cheat really I suppose Dave, there's enough tools already in a standard kit to do beads, something I tried about a month into turning but what the heck, sometimes an easier way just seems too attractive to be too PC.

 

[Paul.J]

Very nice Chas
I'll be keeping a B-D-I on this :lol:

 

[CHJ]

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________Another request out of the way..____Click on image for larger view.
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_________Ovangol_(225mm H)

 

[Bodrighy]

Posh toilet roll holders! Something different.

Seriously, your usual quality of workmanship and finish. Not surprised you are getting these commissions Chas.

Pete

 

[stevebuk]

beautiful as always chas, can i just ask what finish you use, i have recently bought lemon oil, and finishing oil but i dont seem to get a shine on any of my stuff, so i often tend to friction polish everything because i likes a shine, i does, governer.. :lol:

 

[Bodrighy]

For a simple shine wax polish is fine Steve. Friction polish has shellac in it . Most oils leave at best a satin finish, some of them a matt finish but they can be burnished after being allowed to dry. Another trick, try just using sanding sealer then burnishing on the lathe with shavings. Might surprise you

Pete

 

[stevebuk]

Another trick, try just using sanding sealer then burnishing on the lathe with shavings. Might surprise you

Pete

i dont know about surprise pete, it will annoy me having spent money on oils i didn't need!! :lol: :lol:

 

[CHJ]

Just a quick reply while the visitors are putting the world to right.

80 % of my pieces are finished with sanding sealer, and as Pete says, immediately burnished to a hard shine whilst drying, trick is to put enough on to burnish without causing build up streaks.
Sometimes if water resistance or harder wearing required this is followed by a coat of melamine, again burnished, this requires considerable practice to get right. Cutting-polishing with burnishing cream can enhance this finish considerably if required.

If gloss required on limited handling items then I use Woodwax22.

High gloss is normally carnauba wax applied via buffing system, the last few items are examples.