Custom build router cabinet

[stuffimade]

So this is my router cabinet - work in progress...
I would be interested to get your comments and feedback

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ
https://www.facebook.com/Stuff-I-Made-1672995366302244/

you can find out more about the build on Facebook or YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ
https://www.facebook.com/Stuff-I-Made-1672995366302244/

 

[lurker]

very nice!

Reminds me of one built by my friend, who was Motown Martin on this forum.

 

[RobinBHM]

Very smart! I like the dark wood drawer fronts -walnut?

I'm a bit worried you might run out of drawer space

 

[stuffimade]

Thanks! Walnut veneer on the drawer fronts. You may joke about running out of space, but honestly its gonna going to be tight

 

[shed9]

Cool build.

Is that Woodpecker fence hardware?

Only comment I can add is that you may want to add some form of channeling for the dust in the void that houses the router. From my own experience it will build up way too much without some assistance in direction.

 

[stuffimade]

shed9 - Yes Woodpecker super-fence and micro adjuster, which is why i have the extra large top top accommodate the micro adjuster.
Thanks for the feedback! I have a sheet of PTFE that i have heated and bent inside that space and a dust extraction outlet at the back that connects to the rout space, the fence, and edge dust extraction for dados and a weighted drop on unit for flush trimming.

 

[sunnybob]

Regarding the dust space under the table... The router sucks air from the top (bottom in a table) and blows it through the machine to cool it. Make a separate tunnel from outside fresh air to the cap of the router. Isolate this from the general space, or your bearings will get a constant dust storm passing through them.

 

[stuffimade]

sunnybob: Thanks for the advice. I have designed this feature in the SketchUp Model (see pics attached), but i wasn't sure whether to go-ahead with it as i see so many router boxes without it.
I think you are right. My intention was to use some flexible tubing connected to the base of the Triton router and then then through the angled piece allowing for air to be drawn in from a separate hole. This hole was also going to allow the routers power cord to exit the cabinet at the rear.

 

[sunnybob]

Perfect. many woodworkers arent engineers. I'm a lifetime engineer struggling to learn woodwork as a retirement hobby. i spend far more time making sure my machines are working properly, than I do in making sawdust.

And, yes, it has to be flexible to allow for the up /down movement of the router.

 

[stuffimade]

sunnybob: I was thinking about hot gluing a circle of wood to the base of the router with a hole for the vent and some steel screws around the edge of the wooden disk, and then creating a matching disk but inlay magnets and hot glue this to the flexible tube. That way i can easily detach the tube from the base of the router, and hot glue is relatively easy to pop of the plastic of the router should i need to. How does that sound? do you have any other ideas? Ta

 

[sunnybob]

Whatever works for you. Mine is an angled sheet of ply sloping from the front about 3" above the box with a mesh in the front drawing freah air from the front of the cabinet and up the short tube to the router cap, down to the base just behind the router. Doesnt even need to be hot glued or screwed, just make a couple small wood stops so you can lift it straight out.

 

[scholar]

That is one sumptuous router table.

Regarding the dust extraction below the table, my own experience is that it is best if possible to extract as close to source as possible.

It was not clear what sort of router you are using in the table - my previous Trend T11 router came with a Perspex dust shroud and I connected the extractor hose to that which then joined the hose from the back of the fence with a Y piece.
It worked well and left only a few chips at the bottom of the router void.

I wrote up my fitting of a new router motor here my-router-table-and-new-router-motor-t93439.html . Sunnybob's point about the motor cooling airflow is correct and the write up shows how I worked around with the particular router motor and router lift etc that I have.

These two photos show how the rise and fall was allowed for by adding a partly cut away shroud below each insert plate - this directs the dust and chips to the extraction outlet.





Might be of interest.

Cheers

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks! Walnut veneer on the drawer fronts. You may joke about running out of space, but honestly its gonna going to be tight

I ran out of space after I moved in the workbench. (40 years ago?) It never stopped me buying new machines. I just spent hours figuring out where things would go. :lol:

 

[Graham Orm]

Lovely job.

 

[stuffimade]

I just took a look at your post re your router table and dust extraction at source. Very impressive! has given me a few ideas! I have the Triton TRA001.

That is one sumptuous router table.

Regarding the dust extraction below the table, my own experience is that it is best if possible to extract as close to source as possible.

It was not clear what sort of router you are using in the table - my previous Trend T11 router came with a Perspex dust shroud and I connected the extractor hose to that which then joined the hose from the back of the fence with a Y piece.
It worked well and left only a few chips at the bottom of the router void.

I wrote up my fitting of a new router motor here my-router-table-and-new-router-motor-t93439.html . Sunnybob's point about the motor cooling airflow is correct and the write up shows how I worked around with the particular router motor and router lift etc that I have.

These two photos show how the rise and fall was allowed for by adding a partly cut away shroud below each insert plate - this directs the dust and chips to the extraction outlet.





Might be of interest.

Cheers

 

[sunnybob]

One thing i didnt mention about the tube for the router clean air.
If you go with the tube system, it must be as big and as short as you can make it. A long (or narrow) tube will cause air drag, making the router fan work harder to pull the air along it, causing the router motor to get hotter.