Newbie wanting to start a workshop

[simonjng]

Hi all - I had a search but couldn't find any previous answers relating to my exact situation... but please feel free to direct me if the answers have already been given!

I'm keen to setup a workshop in my single garage. I have some experience of making basic furniture (bookcases, corner unit for A/V equipment etc.) but all in a pretty amateur fashion using mainly MDF boards, simple joints and (usually) the wrong tools!

So far, I've been able to get away with a DeWalk circlular saw (can't remember model, but it's quite a large one), a DW621K router a black & decker workmate and a selection of clamps, cramps, drills etc. etc.

Obviously I'm woefully under-stocked!

In some sort of order (for budgetting purposes), what tools should I accumulate to have a decent setup?

And if there are any specific model recommendations for the above, that would also be appreciated... I'm totally happy to buy second-hand through eBay etc. I haven't really set a budget, but I could spend between £1000 and £2000 on tooling, I guess...

Cheers
Simon

 

[Waka]

Simon

Welcome to the forum.

Setting up a workshop depends on which route you wish to go, here are the options:

Hand Tools only
Power Tools only
Both hand and Power Tools

As you already have some power tools I suspect that a combination might be in order.

It would be helpful if you let us know which slope you want us to push you down.

 

[simonjng]

Hi Waka - sorry, I'll try and define the length of the piece of string a bit more!

My ambition is to be a good amateur furniture-maker, rather than a master craftsman, so I envisage trying to use power tools as much as possible... and hand tools where either a) you get a better result and/or b) the power tool required is very expensive/too large for my single garage space.

An example of the next thing I want to build is a complete study comprising integrated shelving units, a desk, storage, etc. all fitted floor to ceiling in a room.

I'd prefer to work with solid hardwoods, but am happy to resort to (laminated) sheetboard where cost is an issue or it is simply more practical.

Does that help any?

Cheers!

 

[Johnboy]

Hi Simon and welcome.

If you want to work with hardwoods then you will want to buy sawn timber and process it yourself, much cheaper. This can be done by hand but is hard work. As a minimum you would need a combined planer/thicknesser or separate machines. I also have a tablesaw and bandsaw and wouldn't be without either. That lot would spend most of your £2000 just for a start!!

Get hold of an Axminster catalogue and have a drool.

John

 

[Scrit]

Hi Simon

"Piece of string" is quite apt! There are so many solutions to every problem in woodworking that trying to give advice about what to buy is very difficult indeed. It may be better to think in terms of joinery shop practice to see what you might need. In a joinery shop the flow through the shop embodies the following processes in turn:

1. Rough crosscutting
2. Rip sawing
3. Face planing and edge jointing
4. Thicknessing
5. Setting out
6. Joint cutting (mortise and tenon, dovetail, dowels, etc)
7. Trimming to size
8. Shape cutting (e.g. curves)
9. Edge profiling
10. Sanding and scraping
11. Assembly
12. Finishing

Within each of those compartments you can slot as many or as few tools as you need. I've recently been trying to work out a basic hand tool kit for a starter carpenter/joiner. To date this is the list I've come up with:

Basics

1. Hand saw, 20 to 24in (500 to 600mm) long cross-cut, 8 to 10 points

2. Back or tenon saw, 12in (300mm), 14 to 16 points

3. Jack plane, 14in (350mm) long with a 2in wide cutter (a No. 5) or 15in (375mm) long with a 2-3/8in (61mm) cutter (a No. 5-1/2)

4. Bevel edge chisels: 1/4in (6mm), 1/2in (12mm) and 3/4in (19mm)

5. Cordless drill/driver. For woodworking this need be no larger than a 9.6 or 12 volt unit. Higher voltage drills can drill more easily into brick and stone but can quickly become tiring to use. The cordless drill/driver has replaced hand screwdrivers as well as the brace and bit almost completely in the trades. If you’d rather not use an electric tool then opt for:
- 5a. Small set of screwdrivers: Pozidriv No. 2, instrument screwdriver and a 6in screwdriver
- 5b. Ratchet brace, 8 to 10in sweep

6. A small selection of bits. For cordless drills:
- 6a. Set of brad point twist bits, 3 to 10mm in 1mm steps
Whilst for hand use:
- 6b. Jennings-pattern auger bits: 1/4in (6mm), 3/8in (9.5mm) and 1/2in (12.7mm)
Together with a counter-sinker, either hand or for use in a drill

7. Birdcage maker’s awl. Unlike the better known bradawl this has a 4-sided point which is less likely to break-out the grain of the timber

8. A cork or rubber sanding block

9. Sharpening stone, 8in long x 2in wide (200 x 50mm). A composite stone with coarse on one side and fine on the other is probably the best choice for a beginner. Ideally an oilstone box should be purchased to protect the stone and the stone kept in the box at all times

10. Pincers, medium size (8in/200mm)

11. Engineer’s all-steel try square, 6in (150mm). These tend to be more accurate than cheap wood and steel squares

12. Hammer, 12oz

13. Wooden mallet, 5 to 6in (125 to 150mm) head

14. Cutting gauge

15. Good quality steel tape measure, 5m

In addition the following should be added as funds allow:

16. Smoothing plane, 9in (225mm) long with a 2in (51mm) cutter (a No. 4) or 10in (250mm) long with a 2-3/8in (61mm) cutter (a No. 4-1/2)

17. Low angle block plane with adjustable mouth

18. Small electric plunge router. These have very much replaced the traditional rebate, plough/grooving and moulding planes. If you’d rather not use an electric tool then opt for:
- 18a. Rebate filletster plane and
- 18b. Small plough plane

This list is an attempt to define a sort of "apprentice" toolkit which will allow a joiner in a furniture shop to undertake bench and site installation tasks equally. There are other tools not included here, such as cramps and the like, but I feel the list is a good starting point. There is, however, one essential item missing from the list which is probably the centre of many small workshops:

A Solid Work Bench

The inclusion of so many hand tools may seem strange in a world where we have power tools and machinery to do everything, but there are always going to be occasions where hand tools save the day because there is no power available. I feel that power tools are useful, but they don't negate the need for hand tools

I'd be grateful for any comments on the above lists

Scrit

 

[OLD]

This is very difficult tools and equipment tend to be gathered as the need arises. A pillar drill and a drill driver will get a lot of use as will a bench and vice. Mitre saws are useful but cross cuts can be done on the table saw if suitable. The trouble is all this kit fills the space so cleaver solutions are required to save space as the kit increases but the space stays the same so consider fold down/moveable bench all equipment on locking casters storing smaller items below larger etc .Layout decisions made know can save a number of future layout alterations there is lots of info and ideas on small shops available.
A usually overlooked facility requirement is a level area for assembly glue up etc

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Simon,

Welcome to the forum.

I'd be grateful for any comments on the above lists

Scrit's list is excellent. It's similar to what I use (although I still don't have a cordless drill ).

You can do virtually everying without machinery and a couple of us on here do just that. If you can't afford good machinery (which will absorb most if not all of your budget) then I wouldn't bother with cheap stuff. It will only lead to frustration and more expense.

If you are going to do most of your work by hand, then I would add some scrub planes. You can make up your own by buying some cheap second-hand planes, opening up the mouths and grinding a steep curve on the blades. These ones are done like that

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They are very good for preparing rough, sawn timber and will save you a lot of hard work.

If you are doing most things by hand, I would add a #7 plane to Scrit's list. Essential really for jointing boards.

I agree fully that you need a good bench. As you have a Workmate you could start off by making up something like this, which I use clamped in a Workmate

Useful to have and you can use it to make something better like this

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They are both made from MDF and softwood and didn't cost much. You will find plenty of vices in second-hand shops.

For hand tools, you can buy lots of good stuff second-hand. I don't use ebay myself, but often rummage about in places like this http://www.pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/ Shops like PFT have some very good stuff and the people are nice to deal with.

With Scrit's list and the power tools you already have, you could do most of what you want in solid wood and man-made boards.

Hope some of this is helpful.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[mr]

Scrits list seems pretty good to me. The big question is whether you want to do the heavy lifting by hand yourself or have it done by the powered apprentice. If the latter I suspect that that's where you should aim the lions share of your budget.
and don't forget to leave enough in the budget to make or buy a decent bench if you haven't got a bench of some sorts then you might as well not bother with the rest of it

Cheers Mike

 

[ByronBlack]

If I could start over again, I would put an emphasis on the following as this is what I believe would give you a very flexible and able starting workshop:

A planer thicknesser - I think this is essential. It saves you money in the mid to long term with regards buying rough sawn timber. I think hand-planes are also an option, but there is a steeper learning curve in fettling and learning the techniques.

A Bandsaw - Can do almost any cut you can imagine.

A Router - excellent for rebates, trenches, morticing, etc etc..

A good set of chisels - Kirschens, Ashley Iles, Sorby, and even Bacho do some nice ones that will enable you to clean up cuts and make joints.

Marking out tools - essential! A good straight edge is IMO one of the most important tools in the workshop. You'll need a selection of marking and mortice guages, and some decent rules and calipers. And also a good marking knife would prove very valuable.

A good block plane - LN or Veritas do a nice 'apron' plane which is a lovely little tool and will allow you to clean up all kinds of operations.

That should get you by initially, you can then add further tools as you go - this is called 'the slope'.

You can get by without either the p/t or the bandsaw, but I feel the operations covered by these machines are very time consuming and quite labor intensive with hand tools - it all depends on your time and energy

Either way, you can rely on the collective of this forum to spend your money, and almost always wisely.

 

[engineer one]

given what you already have, and what you want to achieve,i would suggest that you do what many people have which is buy, or make a
guide rail for your circular saw.

a table saw is very useful, but does take a lot of space, whereas a guide rail will allow you to work within the sheet sized space for cutting down.

the list provided by scrit is comprehensive and very sensible, but then requires that you learn hand skills, which is a good thing to do since it enables you to make things from solid wood, and with less dust :lol:
not less mess, but less fine dust.

good luck

paul :wink:

 

[tenpin]

Hi simonjng,

i am basically in the same situation as yourself.
i recently have set up a home workshop whilst renovating my home and will be migrating to full blown woodwork very soon...i have made a few pieces so far but have plenty on the drawing board.
Setting up my workplace and purchasing of tools this is what i have found...

Space...you need space and the ability to keep this space clear and clean...(not my best practice !)
So first i would look for or make as (Paul Chapman) shows a good work bench, it's essential...i was struggling with workmates and horses till i fully benched my shed and made a piece to fit in my workmate for extra laying out space..

Dust extraction....you'll be surprised where woodchips and wood dust will disappear too.

Tools....my personal experience..

Bandsaw...wasn't the top of my list...but would be starting over again...use it on every project..

Table saw and good circular saws...whether corded or cordless..for resizing 8x4 and other sheet material..

Thickneser/Planer...for cleaning rough bought timber...

Drill press....Floor or bench mount...perfect for drilling square and for using some of the larger bits safely..

Router...with router table....just added this to my collection...got the Ryobi RT6000 table which is the same as Record etc....surprising what is the same..

Clamps...i have found you cannot have too many clamps

Hand tools last on the list but not last to think of as i'm sure you have the good basics...but good chisels,planes screwdrivers and all the others you wil pick up as i have been and still doing as the original cheaper make has broken or when replacement or purchase is justified for the project is needed....

lastly...this is a luxury...but weel worth.....
Compressor/Nail gun..also can be used for other home projects like spraying/finishing..

Just my findings as i make my way to hopefully a more acomplished woodworker...

Nick

 

[DomValente]

Welcome to the 'slope' Simon, as you can see we are all collectors of one kind or another

Dom

 

[simonjng]

Thanks for all the replies! Very helpful...

I have a very old (but VERY solid) bench that currently acts as storage for the masses of automotive tools I own. Once I get those on the walls I have only to get rid of a Caterham 7 (sniff) that currently owns the garage and I'll be ready to go...

I've no doubt I'll be a frequent visitor and looking for more specific advice as I go forward.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have only to get rid of a Caterham 7 (sniff)

:shock: :shock: :shock: I think I'd forget about the workshop and keep the Caterham 7 :lol: :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[ByronBlack]

I have only to get rid of a Caterham 7 (sniff)

:shock: :shock: :shock: I think I'd forget about the workshop and keep the Caterham 7 :lol: :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

What Paul Said!!!

In fact, if you drive it over to my place, you can take all my tools and machines, deal?

 

[Anonymous]

Scrit list: I'd add
a good quality combination square with a marking pin - also really useful as depth gauge, marking gauge, ruler.
A brace with 1 1/4" bit (Yale locks) and a few other sizes
Carpenter's axe
Plumb bob
sliding bevel
opinel penknife, or stanley knife
one or two nail punches.

1st project - to make a box for the oil stone
2nd, a bench
3rd, 2 saw horses
4th, a tool box to carry them all (or most of them) in


cheers
Jacob

 

[DaveL]

1st project - to make a box for the oil stone
2nd, a bench
3rd, 2 saw horses
4th, a tool box to carry them all (or most of them) in

I think I would make the saw horses and then the bench

 

[Scrit]

Scrit list: I'd add......

Well, it was just a basics list :lol: some of the items you note would probably come under my list of early additions whilst I feel that for hand tool working a number of jigs and fixtures such as a bench hook, set of three trestles and an oilstone box would be worth their weight

Scrit

 

[woodbloke]

The one tool that nobody has mentioned (I think) is a marking knife (and a Stanley knife is not a marking knife) which is just about essential for all marking out purposes. They can be bought (Ashley Isles do a nice one) or better made from old pieces of planer blade, bandsaw, jigsaw blade or HSS hack saw blades - Rob

 

[ByronBlack]

The one tool that nobody has mentioned (I think) is a marking knife

And also a good marking knife would prove very valuable.

I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but again have to agree with the upmost here. I struggled along with some crappy knives, until recently I bought an Ashley Iles one from workshop heaven, it has a curved blade which makes it very comfortable to hold at any angle, as opposed to the steep japanese one I had. It's made marking out a great deal easier and more accurate.