More Bedrock madness.....

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Karl

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Following on from my recent Bedrock No6 refurb, I picked up this "little" "beauty"...

DSCF1362.jpg


From the link provided by Paul Chapman in my other thread, i've been able to identify it as a No 8 Type 5 (1911) plane. For those interested....

Unfortunately the plane doesn't have it's original blade and chipbreaker or lever cap. The blade and chipbreaker doesn't bother me - I have a replacement Hock set (which cost more than the bloody plane - they seem to have gone up a lot recently). But the lever cap is an obvious issue, although in the meantime I have a spare one from a Stanley 4 1/2.

The rear handle also needs replacing - it is a horrible replacement, presumably shop made

DSCF1363.jpg


There is a little more rust on this one than the No6 I did, although there is no significant pitting.

Hope to get it done over the course of the next few days, and will post progress as I get along with it.

Cheers

Karl
 
Hi, Karl

Ooooo very nice, you might have problems finding a bedrock lever cap 8 are 2 5/8" not 2 3/8" like 4 1/2, 5 1/5 etc.

I have a Record 8 and its a very nice plane loads of weight nothing stops it, proper mans plane :wink:

Pete
 
Very nice, Karl. How much did it cost you?

I can only imagine that handle feels as awful as it looks - it's almost serpent-like, isn't it! :? It looks too skinny at the bottom.
 
Paul - cheers for the Penny Farthing tip. I'll give them a ring tomorrow.

Pete - I'm not particularly hopeful of finding a 2 5/8" lever cap. I don't think it will really make a difference to the planes performance if I use a 2 3/8" lever cap from a 4 1/2 plane. But it'd be nice to have the right one, so i'll keep scouring.

Olly - I paid £68 for the plane, which I don't think is too bad a price for a relatively rare plane. But the Hock blade and chipbreaker set were about £85 from Classic Hand Tools. Bit of a killer, but i'm taking a long term view on it :lol: The rear handle was bloody uncomfortable - now replaced, as i've cribbed a handle from the 4 1/2 from which i've nicked the lever cap. The lateral adjuster on the No8 was also shot (badly pitted) so i've also nicked the lateral adjuster off that plane. Not much left on it really.....

Cheers

Karl
 
Well, I've seen Stanley no.8s [I think they were Baileys?] go for over £100 on eBay with all the original parts in place... So, considering you are 'upgrading' this rare plane with thicker steel, I think you've done very well indeed! :wink:

(I've also watched no.7s go for much more than £68! :D)
 
Karl, what's the sole like on the no.8? I was tempted to bid myself, but the photo's weren't too clear and the seller didn't respond to my question. In one of the photos it looked as though there was some serious pitting about 3 and a half inches rear of the mouth.
Congratulations on your purchase.
A n0.8 is definitely one I want to get. I get on really well with my 7 (corrugated sole).
I'd be interested to see how you get on with this one.
Adam.
 
RILEY":j8k34x9v said:
Karl, what's the sole like on the no.8? I was tempted to bid myself, but the photo's weren't too clear and the seller didn't respond to my question. In one of the photos it looked as though there was some serious pitting about 3 and a half inches rear of the mouth.
Congratulations on your purchase.
A n0.8 is definitely one I want to get. I get on really well with my 7 (corrugated sole).
I'd be interested to see how you get on with this one.
Adam.

Hi Adam

The sole is in pretty good nick. There is some minor rust, but no significant pitting. I'll hopefully be finishing the plane over the next day or so - the paintwork is sorted, i've just got to sort out the handles, which i'm about to put another coat on, the i'm ready for cleaning up the sole/sides.

I was fortunate in that the guy selling was only a few miles from where i've been working - otherwise the additional £20 postage would probably have put me off buying.

Cheers

Karl
 
Well here's as far as i've got to date

DSCF1376.jpg


DSCF1375.jpg


DSCF1371.jpg


All cleaned up and working great. Ther is some minor pitting to the sides and sole which I haven't bothered to remove - it would be too labourious and be of no practical benefit.

However, you may have noticed no shaving shot - and that's because there's a problem. Although the sole of the plane is flat to within 1.5 thou (of an inch) along its length, the sole is convex across it's width, by about 4 thou. Basically there is a lump running down the length of the centre of the sole. and i'm not really sure on what is the best method of removing it.

Any ideas???

Cheers

Karl
 
Looking good Karl.
Is that a gap I can see in the picture on the surface plate?
That's one hell of a lump to remove!
My first thought was to make up a jig to hold the plane upside down, with two cheeks whose top edges are STRAIGHT AND PARALLEL. Clamp the plane between these cheeks, bottom up, flush against the top edges of the jig and file it level.
No doubt someone with some engineering know hoo will tell me that's a silly idea though!
Good luck with it.
Adam.
 
RILEY":3hutt13b said:
Looking good Karl.
Is that a gap I can see in the picture on the surface plate?
That's one hell of a lump to remove!
My first thought was to make up a jig to hold the plane upside down, with two cheeks whose top edges are STRAIGHT AND PARALLEL. Clamp the plane between these cheeks, bottom up, flush against the top edges of the jig and file it level.
No doubt someone with some engineering know hoo will tell me that's a silly idea though!
Good luck with it.
Adam.

Hi Adam

Thanks for your comments.

The lump to be removed is about 4 thou down the centre of the plane. Having given this a little thought (and taking a lttle inspriation from Bugbears site) I reckon the best way to go is to work along the centre line of the planewith a block and some coarse paper and files, working outwards as the radius of the convexity increases.

OR

Place some kind of tape along the outside edge of the plane's sole, with the tape being, say, 3 thou to start with. Flattening can then be done on the granite plate. Once the convexity is reduced to 3 thou, replace the tape with something of 2 thou and continue to flatten.And continue until the convexity is remove.

Either way, as you say, there's a fair bit of work involved.

Cheers

Karl

Any typo's are as a result of our kitten who has taken an interest in the wireless keyboard and mouse, and also finds it amusing to attempt to claw me to death whilst typing. :lol:
 
RILEY":4kjrlqxm said:
Karl, your kitten sounds just like my 17 month old son!
P.S.
Where did you get the surface plate from?

Your son tries to claw you to death? :lol:

We've got our fill of kids (see avatar) so SWMBO has moved on to kittens :lol:

The plate was from (I think) e-bay - very reasonable at about £60 including delivery. 18" x 12" x 3". Weighs a bloody ton, and is very flat - I haven't got the certificate to hand, but it was flat to less than 1 thou inch.

Cheers

Karl
 
Hi, Karl

Big 4 square file, ******* cut :shock: :wink: clamp her in the vice (carefully) and file away, any thing else will take to long. then surface plate to level off.

Pete
 
Pete Maddex":66d1fxza said:
Hi, Karl

Big 4 square file, ******* cut :shock: :wink: clamp her in the vice (carefully) and file away, any thing else will take to long. then surface plate to level off.

Pete

I've found REALLY coarse SiC or AlZi (I mean 40 to 60 grit) moves metal quite quickly, and is easier to work locally than a file, if you haven't had a long apprenticeship in engineering.

BugBear
 
Hi, BB

I have some 36 grit disks for my angle grinder they EAT anything :shock: possibly a bit much for this job :wink:



Pete
 
Hi, my two pen'orth.

I'm thinking along the lines of a shooting board with the grinding paper in place of the wood to be shot. That way the paper, with some packing, can be applied in exactly the correct place. Freehand much checking will be needed to avoid getting carried away.

xy
 
xy mosian":2nsa83zp said:
Hi, my two pen'orth.

I'm thinking along the lines of a shooting board with the grinding paper in place of the wood to be shot. That way the paper, with some packing, can be applied in exactly the correct place.

How does one know what the right place is?!

BugBear
 
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