Handle for Long Hole Boring auger

[Spindle]

Can't see any advantage of removing the wings myself.

Hi

Removing the wings allows you to drill the handle to the same diameter as the tool, it also facilitates the installation of the tool into the handle, (no need for force / burning etc.). Therefore you end up with a tool and handle well mated.

Regards Mick

 

[swb58]

I'm surprised someone hasn't mentioned Red Bull yet :wink:

Yes cut the wings off and mount in a handle and it'll probably be ok if you've done a half decent job. But the wings weren't put there for nothing, something to do with rotational forces I would imagine.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Well...thanks for the input all. I have in fact already used it once on my first ever lamp. The rotational forces were considerable. So much so that I ended up clamping the tang and held the clamp like a lever to prevent it from turning in the cut. So a strategy to prevent it from turning is high on the agenda. I'm inclined to think that that's maybe why the wings were used in its manufacture having read all the comments. Perhaps the belt and braces approach is right given that experience ie epoxy and retain the wings??

I have little experience with epoxy Mick so I'm not familiar with its strength. What Epoxy should I buy? Is there a favourite brand people trust and recommend?

 

[Vic Perrin]

Bob this is a photo of the one I have been using for the past 5 years. Nothing technical about it rather crude really but believe me it does the job.

Having the handle in T form reduces the rotational forces to virtually zero.

Wings left on as from the manufacturer, small hole drilled in handle and thumped onto tang.

Forget all the technical bumph that has been posted. Not the nicest looking tool I have made but believe me it works fine

The c/b up marked on the Handel shows me that the cutting part of the borer is in the up position

Vic

 

[Spindle]

Hi Bob

From what you say I assume you tried to use the tool unhandled.

I have a handle of about 30mm diameter on mine and it is more than sufficient in my opinion, it takes no more than light pressure, (thumb and two fingers), to prevent it rotating. Starting the cut requires a bit more pressure but once initiated you can reduce the force and let the tool take it's course. Clearing the waste regularly is important and hence why you need to know where the flute is.
With regard to epoxy - in this case any type will be fine, you can assure a better joint by warming the tool to about 60 degrees, (hot in the hand), before insertion into the epoxied handle.

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Hi Bob

From what you say I assume you tried to use the tool unhandled.

I have a handle of about 30mm diameter on mine and it is more than sufficient in my opinion, it takes no more than light pressure, (thumb and two fingers), to prevent it rotating. Starting the cut requires a bit more pressure but once initiated you can reduce the force and let the tool take it's course. Clearing the waste regularly is important and hence why you need to know where the flute is.
With regard to epoxy - in this case any type will be fine, you can assure a better joint by warming the tool to about 60 degrees, (hot in the hand), before insertion into the epoxied handle.

Regards Mick

Hi Mick

It was unhandled yes....my turning club had a lamp turning competition so I had to get it done fast and was out of time so I just wacked it in and hoped for the best. I couldn't hold it free hand as it was such a tight fit the rotation of the lamp body would wrench it out of my grasp...hence the use of the clamp on the tang to counter that force in the end. Actually, Vic's idea of a T handled approach is appealing because that's essentially what I was doing with the clamp. The only thing that slightly jangles with the advice is that you're saying it goes in easy? My lamp was an old piece of down in the 1987 storms oak and it was bloody hard I must admit. I had to really push the auger to get it to cut at all and I was careful to remove the swarf. I must say I have my doubts about the cutting end. It is essentially a wide flute with an enclosed end. It doesn't look sharp, it doesn't feel sharp and I wondered when I saw it if its just a manufacturing defect from the casting process? Is yours an open flute or does it have these little metal wings in the semi-circle of the flute? I'll get a snap or 2 and post them up.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Bob this is a photo of the one I have been using for the past 5 years. Nothing technical about it rather crude really but believe me it does the job.

Having the handle in T form reduces the rotational forces to virtually zero.

Wings left on as from the manufacturer, small hole drilled in handle and thumped onto tang.

Forget all the technical bumph that has been posted. Not the nicest looking tool I have made but believe me it works fine

The c/b up marked on the Handel shows me that the cutting part of the borer is in the up position

Vic

That looks a great design Vic....quite possibly the best of all worlds because I can keep the tang, use epoxy and have the extra side leverage of that design. Also, I wouldn't need to thump the stem down a really long hole.

 

[Vic Perrin]

Hi Bob

From what you say I assume you tried to use the tool unhandled.

I have a handle of about 30mm diameter on mine and it is more than sufficient in my opinion, it takes no more than light pressure, (thumb and two fingers), to prevent it rotating. Starting the cut requires a bit more pressure but once initiated you can reduce the force and let the tool take it's course. Clearing the waste regularly is important and hence why you need to know where the flute is.
With regard to epoxy - in this case any type will be fine, you can assure a better joint by warming the tool to about 60 degrees, (hot in the hand), before insertion into the epoxied handle.

Regards Mick

Hi Mick

It was unhandled yes....my turning club had a lamp turning competition so I had to get it done fast and was out of time so I just wacked it in and hoped for the best. I couldn't hold it free hand as it was such a tight fit the rotation of the lamp body would wrench it out of my grasp...hence the use of the clamp on the tang to counter that force in the end. Actually, Vic's idea of a T handled approach is appealing because that's essentially what I was doing with the clamp. The only thing that slightly jangles with the advice is that you're saying it goes in easy? My lamp was an old piece of down in the 1987 storms oak and it was bloody hard I must admit. I had to really push the auger to get it to cut at all and I was careful to remove the swarf. I must say I have my doubts about the cutting end. It is essentially a wide flute with an enclosed end. It doesn't look sharp, it doesn't feel sharp and I wondered when I saw it if its just a manufacturing defect from the casting process? Is yours an open flute or does it have these little metal wings in the semi-circle of the flute? I'll get a snap or 2 and post them up.

Bob the little flute is part of the cutting design although it looks as though it is a defect it is in fact the cutting part of the tool don't remove it at any cost as it will ruin the tool. When I first used mine I thought it was naff but once you have had a couple of goes and start to feel the bite of the tool you will find it gets easier to use.

Vic

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Vic....is it possible to sharpen it dya reckon?

 

[Vic Perrin]

Thanks Vic....is it possible to sharpen it dya reckon?

Bob, not sure but I have never sharpened mine in 5 years and it still cuts well after 20 or more lamps up to 24" long.

Remember, find the bite of the cutter, apply some pressure and keep pulling right out so as to clear the cuttings. My first couple of attempts were painful to say the least but once I got the knack it was easy even in some hard woods, little cuts and plenty of clearing is the key in my opinion.

Vic

PS, have a look on the Record Power web site if I remember rightly there is some information on sharpening the tool.

 

[Spindle]

Hi Bob

I'll get a photo of my borer's tip if it will help, but you should not need to use much force to get the cut to initiate.

A 'T' handle may seem like the best solution but in my experience it would be less than optimal - ergonomically it is better for me to hold a cylindrical shaped handle than a 'T' shaped one when working from the tailstock. This of course, is dependant on how your lathe is situated.

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

That's a good point actually Mick and may influence the choice. My tailstock is awkward to get at (I cant walk round it as its currently situated) and I was reaching to get the end of the auger into the hollow centre. That might be why I'm hedging towards the T idea. I can use that side on which was how I was using it with the clamp.

 

[Vic Perrin]

Bob have a look at this link

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1109

Vic

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd have thought a "T" handle would give you one hell of a jolt when the bit caught.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Vic
Here's a couple of close-ups of the shell auger tip. I guess its not incorrectly designed after all the input. I've just not seen this design before.

 

[Vic Perrin]

Thanks Vic
Here's a couple of close-ups of the shell auger tip. I guess its not incorrectly designed after all the input. I've just not seen this design before.

That's how they look Bob

Vic

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Vic

 

[Dalboy]

Make the handle in two parts carve out both halves to the shape of the tang. Glue this together with a paper joint and then turn, remove from lathe split in half and clean the mating faces. Finally glue the two halves of the handle to the tang. Remember to make a mortice to take a feral(spelling) which when fitted will help strengthen the join.

That looks like the one I have supplied by Record power tools

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

It is the record kit Dal......as seen in this Alan Holtham piece

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y3IhIpigRo

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Put a 4" x 5/16th hole in a piece of 6" x 2"and turn it round. Scuff up the steel a little making sure no part is thicker than 5/16" and glue the bit in.
Mine were done with PVA - it works perfectly well. Why make work?