Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi all
After the recent discussion regarding gouge grinds, in particular the "Findley Grind" I thought I would post images of my bowl gouge and spindle gouges. Hope they help!!
Bowl Gouge:
Ground to around 65 deg on the main bevel, using a tilting table in front of my Axminster 8" slow running grinder. The handle is swung slowly to the side, keeping contact the the table at all times and rolling the tool so sparks can be seen dancing on the edge. The heel is then ground back, shortening the bevel by about half, which allows to tool to cut around even the tightest of curves with out leaving bruises or ridges in the wood.
Spindle gouge:
This is ground to around 35deg, again on the tilting table, this time I grind the nose to shape then ride the gouge up the stone while rotating it to grind the wings back. The heel is once again removed for ease of cutting tight curves and improved finish.
A couple of things to remember when grinding:
1 - Use a light touch! you only need to use the weight of the tool on the stone, the aim really is to clean the bevel, not shorten the tool!
2 - There is much more steel at the botton of the flute than on the wings so more time needs spending grinding this area and much less on the wings. Too much grinding of the wing will create a hook at the tip when you look at the tool side on, this will not cut well at all. The wings should curve back from the tip slightly convex ideally.
I hope this is of some help to you. Please feel free to ask questions of add pictures and descriptions of your tool grinds.
Cheers
Richard
After the recent discussion regarding gouge grinds, in particular the "Findley Grind" I thought I would post images of my bowl gouge and spindle gouges. Hope they help!!
Bowl Gouge:
Ground to around 65 deg on the main bevel, using a tilting table in front of my Axminster 8" slow running grinder. The handle is swung slowly to the side, keeping contact the the table at all times and rolling the tool so sparks can be seen dancing on the edge. The heel is then ground back, shortening the bevel by about half, which allows to tool to cut around even the tightest of curves with out leaving bruises or ridges in the wood.
Spindle gouge:
This is ground to around 35deg, again on the tilting table, this time I grind the nose to shape then ride the gouge up the stone while rotating it to grind the wings back. The heel is once again removed for ease of cutting tight curves and improved finish.
A couple of things to remember when grinding:
1 - Use a light touch! you only need to use the weight of the tool on the stone, the aim really is to clean the bevel, not shorten the tool!
2 - There is much more steel at the botton of the flute than on the wings so more time needs spending grinding this area and much less on the wings. Too much grinding of the wing will create a hook at the tip when you look at the tool side on, this will not cut well at all. The wings should curve back from the tip slightly convex ideally.
I hope this is of some help to you. Please feel free to ask questions of add pictures and descriptions of your tool grinds.
Cheers
Richard
