Danish oil

[Boothie14]

Hi could anyone share with me how to finish bowls with danish oil?Do I have to wait between coats and do I sand i'm between?
Thanks

 

[cornucopia]

apply it with a cloth or kitchen towel then wipe of the excess after 1 minute or so denib between coats with the last grit you sanded with (320 or 400 mormally) then re apply as many coats as you like bearing in mind the more coats the higher shine will be achieved.

make sure you dispose of the cloth or towel properly as they can and do self combust- do not leave them in your workshop.

 

[Shay Vings]

When I first used D oil I used cellulose sanding sealer first (per K Rowley book). Then I read the Peter Childs Catalogue Notes and started to use it on untreated wood. That seems more sensible as the first coats are absorbed quicker which shortens the whole mult-coat process.

If you want to do a final burnishing on the lathe then you need cole jaws or a means of remounting.

 

[Jenx]

Someone said something to me recently.. and it makes sense... "with an oil finish, you want the wood to absorb as much oil as possible, so the use of sealers prior to an oil finish is a mistake"

I cant see an argument against that... unless someone knows better ?

:?:

 

[cornucopia]

Someone said something to me recently.. and it makes sense... "with an oil finish, you want the wood to absorb as much oil as possible, so the use of sealers prior to an oil finish is a mistake"

I cant see an argument against that... unless someone knows better ?

:?:

I can sort of see where your coming from jenx

oil is a penatrative finish as opposed to varnish which sits on the surface

 

[duncanh]

I remember going to a demo at our club given by Mark Baker (I think) where he used a sealer before an oil finish. On page 25 of his book 'Woodturning Projects' under the Surface Finishes heading he says 'Sanding sealers are used to seal and prepare the surface of the wood prior to the application of a wax or oil finish coat.
In the Oils section he doesn't mention it though.

From my recollection he said something along the lines of ...

if you apply the oil to plain wood the oil soaks into the surface (the bit between the pores) and into the pores themselves. It's easier for the oil to get into the pores so that's where most of it will disappear to and it can end up relatively deep in the timber. You can see this in action on a bowl where the oil applied to the area of end grain soaks in a lot faster and needs another application almost immediately. You can do this, wait for it to soak in again and perhaps apply again. Wipe off the excess. Then wait 24 hours, repeat, then repeat until the oil starts to build up. This may take several applications and use a fair amount of oil on a large project.

You actually want the oil to remain quite close to the surface (so that over several coats it will build up a protective layer and harden over the surface), so why waste the oil that soaks into the pores?

To stop the oil heading into the pores you can apply a sanding sealer to the surface, wipe off excess, let it harden and then sand back so the wood surface is exposed but the pores remain filled.
If you now apply oil it doesn't soak into the pores (perhaps some, but not as much) and remains to soak into the surface.

I've tried it a few times and it kind of works but I've never persevered with it.


Duncan

 

[wizer]

Is the oil wasted if it soaks in deep? Surely the more oil the wood can suck up, the more protection it has. It certainly doesn't seem right, to me, to use a sealer before oil.