Dakota Pocket hole jig

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I have the same model, can't fault it for basic pocket hole joinery.

The Kreg stuff looks overpriced to me for what it is, as usual the price is hugely inflated to cover the advertising and marketing programme.
 
The Kreg master systems are more than a bench mounted jig though - the block can be removed and used with a clamp in situ. It doesn't look to me like the Dakota can do that.

Useful for doing pockets in the end of long timbers (try balancing a 8ft piece of studwork on end in that jig), adding screws to already sited timber (repairs for example), or for when your thickness exceeds the capacity of the jig.

I've only ever used the Kreg but its been flawless and I couldn't recommend it enough.
 
you can move the dakota block for use in situ.

Is it as good as a Kreg? Probably not
 
The Kreg I find brilliant.

One of the weaknesses of the cheap ones is the lack of calibration (settings) for different thickness boards, etc. It's 'dial-in' on the Kreg jigs. Also the dust extraction works very well, the storage box is handy, and the DVD mine came with was a very good introduction.

I'm sure there are arguments the other way, but I'm pleased I went with Kreg, even though there are cheaper alternatives.
 
It only comes with the 3/8 size bush. Any ideas on how to geta 6mm bush/shim and bit that will fit the jig?
 
davic":1n0339o3 said:
It only comes with the 3/8 size bush. Any ideas on how to geta 6mm bush/shim and bit that will fit the jig?

I doubt you could, and I struggle to understand why anyone might want to do that.

The bore size, the angles, stock thickness and screw sizes are all related. The system won't work with just any old drill, and anyway, 6mm is VERY small for this sort of application.

Can you explain?
 
Eric The Viking":2oetqjek said:
davic":2oetqjek said:
It only comes with the 3/8 size bush. Any ideas on how to geta 6mm bush/shim and bit that will fit the jig?

I doubt you could, and I struggle to understand why anyone might want to do that.

The bore size, the angles, stock thickness and screw sizes are all related. The system won't work with just any old drill, and anyway, 6mm is VERY small for this sort of application.

Can you explain?

I'll try, other systems have those bits and guide bushes and thought that it might offer some flexibility for using narrower wood. It seems odd that others offer this but this one doesn't. Perhaps it isn't?
 
I still can't imagine what you might do with that, unless it's got something to do with the word 'dowel'.
I've seen the Silverline one described as a 'dowel jig' elsewhere too. I hesitate to say that shoving a dowel into an angled hole would be completely pointless, but almost so. I have an older version of the Wolfcraft dowel jig, and it's great, if rather limited. I can't imagine what I might use that Silverline thing for, certainly not actual dowelling.

Is it possible Silverline intend that you drill the pilot hole and counterbore separately? The Kreg (and, I think the UJK one that Axminster sell) both use special stepped drills to do both together, AND crucially to ensure the bottom of the counterbore is flat, not conical. If you put a countersink screw in or the hole isn't flat, much of the strength of the joint goes and you risk splitting the wood.

The Kreg system works, and works well. I can't imagine the Silverline one being more than a waste of money, which frankly doesn't surprise me in the slightest.
 
It's looking like I am trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Just wondering though...
 
That one is the right drill: 6.35 is 1/4", which is the shank (the hexagonal part), not the size of the drill itself, which is 3/8".

I have one of those, as well as the normal sort: it's for using in quick-change bit holders, but works just as well in a conventional chuck. Tip: make sure you have two before you start a job, in case.
 
Just remembered, I have seen a face frame made with a kreg that was deffo less than 9.5mm or 3/8. I think that the smaller size is used for non load bearing stuff.

Last post v. Helpful BTW.. :)
 
Rather than start a new thread thought I'd just stick a mini review on here, in case it's of use to someone.
Recently purchased Dakota pocket hole jig in Rutlands Black Friday sale (yes I know their 'Sales' are not always as they should be but I needed some other stuff as well) First time I have used apocket hole jig so cannot compare it to anything else.

The jig comes in a wooden box, with wrenches a small bag of screws, a couple of square drivers and a couple of spare guides as well as drill bit and stop collar. No instructions but all packaged quite well.
First couple of times you use the jig the drill bit tends to bind a bit due to sawdust sticking to the grease on it, quick squirt with WD40 cured that. Also some aluminium swarf first few uses, guess this is the same as other jigs.
You can set the the two drill guides at a dimension and lock them with the allen key, set the stop collar so the pilot drill just misses the base plate (used a black plastic spacer) pop the timber in, clamp it and drill away. You can remove the the drill guides to take it to the workpiece but setting it in place would be a case of measuring or eyeballing. I believe the Kreg jigs come with a little stop and seem better suited to that application.

Good bits.
I was surprised at how strong the joint is.
Pleasantly surprised at the quality for the money, so good value.

Bad bits.
No dust extraction or side hole for the sawdust to escape that are features on the other makes. So feel the drill bit binds more than it should, just need to regularly lift the bit to clear it.
The clamp when it locks down (and you need to push it all the way down to get it to lock) will push the drill guides out of square quite easily, particularly on thicker stock, it seems to me that either the clamp is mounted too close to the guides or there is not enough adjustment on the clamp. The photo shows some scrap that was just over 20mm as a trial, much thicker and I think it would have broken the guides off as you lock the clamp down. (spec on Rutlands website says for upto 1 & 1/2") At some point I shall redrill and tap the base plate Thus giving two positions for the clamp to allow for thicker stock.
No instructions (but its not rocket science) would have been nice to have some guidance on screw sizes.
Only one size of screw included.

So all in all it seems perfectly acceptable for the occasional non professional use that I shall put it to.
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