Charnwood W852 Planer/Thicknesser setup

[Scottdimelow]

Hi, I've recently bought the above used. It's just a generic chinese model. It seemed great to start with, just had a quick pass over the planer. I've never used one before.

As I've tried to true everything up a slight problem has appeared. I set the blades parallel to the thicknesser bed, but there's no way of adjusting the infeed wing of the planer.


Is it a major issue if it takes a slightly uneven cut when planing? It's probably .5mm over 250mm.

 

[Steve Maskery]

It can be a problem if you have to take many passes. I'd prefer my machine to be better than 20 thou over its bed, which is what you are talking about.

When you set the knives true to the thicknessing bed, are they also true to the outfeed table? If so, then you have to find a way to true the infeed table, which may well mean dismantling it and getting a file out on mating surfaces. I've only done it once, on the outfeed table, and I had an engineer friend to help me. It was well worth the effort.

 

[Scottdimelow]

The outfeed table is adjustable in every direction so that's not a problem. I think I'll have to do as you say and tinker with it, either shim or remove some material.
I suppose the fact the beds are aluminium may make it easier.

It's annoying when something is sold with no way of setting it up correctly, it should really have the same adjustment as the outfeed.

I've got a day off tomorrow so I think I've found a job to do I'll get the files out!

 

[Eric The Viking]

At risk of being pedantic, check the drum itself is parallel to the thicknesser bed before you start otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy. Then check it against the outfeed table.

If that's sound, you only have to get the knives parallel and the right projection with respect to the outfeed to have the thicknesser right too.

I appreciate you still have the infeed table to sort out, but if the drum, thicknesser bed and outfeed table aren't parallel, you've no hope of getting the whole thing on song. You might even find the infeed isn't as bad as it appears

With my cheap one (a Kity) the hardest-to-adjust part becomes the axis of reference ;-)

 

[Scottdimelow]

I managed to fix this issue. The drum and thicknesser bed were fine, which I was very glad about. I ended up having to shim one side of the infeed table, I used a 0.5mm feeler gauge.

Once that was done, I just made the beds co-planer and it was all sorted.

I just need to add a new fence, the one it came with isn't at all flat. If only I had a planer/thicknesser to make one...

 

[Eric The Viking]

I think the fence on mine (Kity) is made from an extrusion like this (although a bit taller):

You could back two strips of that (cut it up) with plywood, and it would probably be OK. It's a bit pricey for what it is, but it doesn't move about with changes in humidity!

Whiile I was refurbing the machine I worried about the fence - the mounting isn't very strong either and you'd think it would wobble about, but in practice it's been fine.

I've got some bits of old aluminium window frame I use as long straightedges, but they're hard to find now the world is hardwood and uPVC. You'd also struggle to get the height you really need.

Can you find another machine, for which you can just buy the fence plate as a spare part?

 

[Scottdimelow]

I could buy some aluminium extrusion, I've got some already that I use on my t-square TS fence (askwoodman style, youtube)

That stuff is really straight, plus the original is only mounted with 4 self tappers. I think I'll just use ply for now, two strips of 18mm laminated should do it. I'll clamp it to the extrusion I have and hopefully that'll make it nice and flat.

Thanks for your input